Thread: Cure (?) Leaking Power Steering Box

The Lucas PAS fluid (conditioner?!?!?!?!) is extremely viscous compared to real PAS/ATF fluid. I put some in to get through the WA rego inspection, but I will be draining it out and replacing the seal ASAP, then refilling with ATF/PAS fluid again.

I put one bottle in, which stopped the leak completely for a few days (first inspection), then it started leaking worse than before. I put another half bottle in, and that has slowed it down quite a lot but not stopped it. So I am not overly impressed.

It also makes ridiculous claims like "restores worn rack and pinions" and "removes steering play". Talk about false advertising...

did your steering box drip or leave pools on the floor?
just want to get an idea of what the leak stopper stops.

Thank you Byron! Please put a gold star (or an elephant stamp if you're Hindu) on your forehead.

I'm going to do exactly what you've described on Saturday and will report back.

It's been the one bugbear of my 93 for years, but it comes and goes; as I've mentioned before, I think the seals are self healing, if you're gentle..

Cheers, GQ

Originally Posted by isuzurover

The Lucas PAS fluid (conditioner?!?!?!?!) is extremely viscous compared to real PAS/ATF fluid. I put some in to get through the WA rego inspection, but I will be draining it out and replacing the seal ASAP, then refilling with ATF/PAS fluid again.

I put one bottle in, which stopped the leak completely for a few days (first inspection), then it started leaking worse than before. I put another half bottle in, and that has slowed it down quite a lot but not stopped it. So I am not overly impressed.

It also makes ridiculous claims like "restores worn rack and pinions" and "removes steering play". Talk about false advertising...

mmmmm, interesting.....years ago I had the seals replaced in 2 different RR Classics I had and they began leaking again within a year or so.......and on one of them I later relaced the steering box with a BRAND NEW one.....it began to leak soon after the 12 month warranty expired......like I said they are CHRONIC LEAKERS!!!

Like I said, I'll have to wait and see how long this "repair" lasts!

Originally Posted by harry

did your steering box drip or leave pools on the floor?
just want to get an idea of what the leak stopper stops.

Just spots on the garage floor and rust proofing all around steering box!.....only used about 100 ml per month/1000 klms

the non gennuine fix is to fit the "wrong" type of seal for the application...

typically rover boxes dont use em but try this...

get a T seal with the dual supporting nylon rings when you replace them again.. They are a right pain in the ass to fit but if you install them with smackings of high density rubber grease then fit a cheapy dust seal to the outside of the shaft also packed with said grease your leaks should be cured for ages...


The seals look like an upside down T with a pair of L shaped nylon rings around them (head of the T to the inside of the seal) the nylon supports are oversized and their compression squeezes the rubber to make the seal. They are supposed to be used in Hydraulic rams but work a treat in this application, provided they are greased prior to assembley.

Most dynamic seal failures have dry installation as an attribuable factor in failure.

In a pinch use vasaline.

Adding a gob of vasoline (up to 30% of resivior capacity) can thicken ordinary power steering fluid enough to get you past a roadworthy.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

the non gennuine fix is to fit the "wrong" type of seal for the application...

typically rover boxes dont use em but try this...

get a T seal with the dual supporting nylon rings when you replace them again.. They are a right pain in the ass to fit but if you install them with smackings of high density rubber grease then fit a cheapy dust seal to the outside of the shaft also packed with said grease your leaks should be cured for ages...


The seals look like an upside down T with a pair of L shaped nylon rings around them (head of the T to the inside of the seal) the nylon supports are oversized and their compression squeezes the rubber to make the seal. They are supposed to be used in Hydraulic rams but work a treat in this application, provided they are greased prior to assembley.

Most dynamic seal failures have dry installation as an attribuable factor in failure.

In a pinch use vasaline.

Adding a gob of vasoline (up to 30% of resivior capacity) can thicken ordinary power steering fluid enough to get you past a roadworthy.

Thanks for the advice ..........I understand that the reason the always leak, even from near brand new is that the hardened input and out put shafts [output shaft leaks are much worse!] run in "white metal" bushes.......they wear out verrry quickly [well a lot, lot more quickly than most steering boxes] so the only real solution is to somehow "re-bush" these two areas.....OR ....fit a different manufacturers replacement made to replace these boxes [available in the U.S.]......might be the way to go.

BTW, I thought rubber grease would dissolve in petroleum based stuff [e.g. ATF/ Power Steering Fluid?......also, won't petroleum jelly/Vasoline soften the seals?....and maybe worsen the leak problems.......I understood the new seals were lubed with ATF in order to fit, obviously putting in and running a seal dry is a dumb way to hope to get any longevity out of it.

like I said....I think the cause of the leaks is the wear in the metal that the shafts run in....it's way too soft.....maybe fitting oversize seals [if available] is the way to go?

Lucas oil is the same as Moreys engine oil stabilzer I have been using it since 1987 in all my Rangies and my power steering box has had one seal replaced in the bottom after 500k, pump is untouched
I use it everywhere, my cv joints are original but I use 100% moreys in them always have. I am on original wheel bearings 520k on the clock now.
the aftermarket repairers Rovertech, discovery autos ,british parts and service centre all use it and have done so for many many years.
Does it work?
I for one believe so and will continue to use it for years to come.
My 10cents worth
Brad