Thread: Deep cycle batteries

First off, as I posted, there is no reason to do it in the first place and secondly, no matter how you set them up, there is no way to make this type of set up 100% safe and as posted above, as it’s unnecessary, why risk it.

My equipment that I supply the camper trailer, caravan and motor home manufactures, has to comply to the standards and as such I carry all the latest versions. The Australian Standards for motor homes, caravans and campers relate to provisions for on site power and power from generators and there is nothing in the standards relating to either specifically using this power while on the move or to the use of inverters at all.

Last but not least, trying to protect the live of others is hardly scraping the barrel but thinking you can beat the odds of ever having an accident that could circumvent any so called safe set ups is a tad naive.

Cheers

Sorry but if you have 240v running around whilst moving there has to be a risk, whatever precautions you take, there is a risk.

I personally wouldn't have it on board, especially when in this day and age there is absolutely zero need.

Everything you may need (or think you may need) will run on 12v

My penny's worth

Originally Posted by zwitter

Do you know why Engel fridges have a plastic interlock to prevent both 12 and 240v cables being connected at the same time? because when run on 12v the internal inverter that drives the compressor actually puts 240v on the 240v input terminals! I have never heard of electrocution from aln Engel in an accident. In extreme circumstances the 240v from the inverter can actually be used to power small devices.

My MT45F Engel doesnt have an interlock at all.....

I can have BOTH plugs in at once and the 240 plug has no power at all...

The Engel has a switching system which picks 240 over 12v if it is active, on 12v the 240 cord is DEAD...

I know, I just went and probed it....

i have no technical expertise with electrickery but i am dead against their being 240v in moving passenger / non commercial vehicles UNLESS those vehicles are clearly marked, so those that risk their lives saving others have a clue that their MAY be live 240v on the chassis or body.

emergency personnel can then make an informed descision how to help those needing help without risking their own lives IF something untoward does unfortunetly happen.

there have now been several industrial deaths attributted to the use or missuse of inverters, and laws and standards are hopefully changing ....

PS just checked my 60 litre engel with my new wizzbang meter and it behaves as tombraiders does....

Originally Posted by incisor

PS just checked my 60 litre engel with my new wizzbang meter and it behaves as tombraiders does....

what badly?

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

what badly?

:P i hope not, it will be keeping me company on fraser next week ......

Um can I throw someting else into the ring?
I have just fitted a dc dc convertor in my rangie to charge my Deep cycle calcium battery a little bit quicker.
As I am not using the rangie during the week my car Audio amp is slowly flattning the aux battery that I have it connected to. I know that the aux deep cycle battery will take longer to charge and just running around on the weekend is not enough to do it nor is leaving one campsite and driving a few hrs to the next it wont charge up enough and I usually run out of aux battery.
I fitted a dc dc converter, 8-16 dc volts in, 13.8 volts dc at 20 amps out.
I have one of drivesafes sc40 charging systems that works fine but as I am not driving enough I was told by Challenge batterys here in perth that this is what would help me. I have fitted it and so far now my aux batt is fully charged all the time. As with the sc 40 it keeps the dc dc convertor on till the voltage drops enough on the starting battery and disconnects the supply to it just as the sc40 is designed to do, so my starting battery which is a normal type lead acid will charge up quicker when I start the car and go for a run.
I am experimenting with this at the moment as I may need a switch to put back the sc40 as is was originally wired so I get the benefit of having the extra time by using some of the starting batt for my fridge and acc.
I hope what I wrote makes sense.

I wired the input of the dc convertor to the second batt terminal output of the sc40 and now use the output of the dc dc convertor directly to the aux battery so its in series. I can also turn the dc dc convertor off as it has its own switch and overload cutout.
It cost me 120 dollars

The only disadvantage I have come across so far is when I turn the car off the dc dc convertor is still charging the aux battery till the voltage drops on the starting battery and the sc 40 then disconects which inturn stops the supply to the dc dc convertor therfor stopping the charge to the aux battery

Any comments good or bad?
Brad

not a bad plan, however be cautious with the DC-DC converter setup some dont like being left with voltage applied to the output side when theres nothing on the input side, at best they just suck power at worse they get hot and give up early.

Doesnt apply to all of em tho so it may not be a problem, drop a fuse in between for safety and out of curiosity pull the fuse and leave an ampsmeter in place to see whats what.