Thread: d1 onto 33" simex j/t's

I have 33 x 10.5 x 15 bfg muddies on my disco 1, with just a spring lift and trim rear of both the front and rear wheel arches. No flares needed with standard backspace 7" rims.

I am thinking of getting some 33 x 10.5 x 16 JT2's on stock disco steel wheels. Will have to trim the guards some more (as others have said they are over 33" - 860mm (14") in my catalogue).

yes the trekkers are 33"x10.5xR16 on standard serries 2 disco rims at the moment (thats what I was running on the D2 with a 4" lift, because I was told 15" rims wouldn't fit)
So I was now wanting to throw them on the D1,, but I just wanted to know whether I needed more than a 2" spring lift before I had them changed onto the standard d1 rims & whether or not the d1 rims would clear them??
I was hopeing the 2" spring lift & a 2" body lift would be enough to fit the 33's on standard d1 rims,, but as they say, life wasn't ment to be easy.

I have a set of speedy rims in the shed 15"x8" in the shed from the old defender that will bolt on, but I am not sure of the offset, (8Jx15 03 YF are the only numbers I can find on the rims) but then I have to get rid of the 16" trekkers that have done next to no work just to buy 15" tyres.

So I am now left with a desicion that is going to cost me money.

So it's either $1500 for 5 new 15" tyres to stick on the speedy rims I already have & will probably still need white tiger flares ($540).As well as a white tiger 2.5" body lift ($700) (I suppose if I make the body lift myself I could get away with it for around $200 I suppose)

or

Or $130 a rim (5 = $650) from les richmond for 16" offset rims as well as body lift & flares.

There just isn't going to be an easy way out of this is there.

Ahhh well thanks for your help guys. geuss I will just have to wait now till I congragate some more money.

You could just have the rims you have in the shed offset. Around $50 each at some places.

You'll want around 80 to 100mm backspace.

Cut the guards and fit some rubber strip from Clarke Rubber. Not as nice as the LRA flares but they'll do.

You might get away without a body lift....maybe.

But a body lift is no big deal really. Have a machine shop (toolmaker) make up 10 x 50mm Diameter x 11 mm inside diameter blocks (Aluminium or mild steel) at 50mm high. You could even do this yourself at home on a drill press, if you're keen.

High tensile bolts to match the lift and you're done.........pretty much.

For 33" JT's you only need a gaurd cut, that is all, no need for a body lift, You DON'T NEED offset rims, they are just preferable for the extra steering lock, but you can run them on a standard rim if you wish

Lower that thing.

You know you want to!

Originally Posted by rovercare

For 33" JT's you only need a gaurd cut, that is all, no need for a body lift, You DON'T NEED offset rims, they are just preferable for the extra steering lock, but you can run them on a standard rim if you wish

I like the sounds of this .
At least I can get the tyres on (& the ol' girl off the ground) untill I can afford to go the whole hog.

Yea get some LRA flares, or flare rubber from clarke rubber, you have to cut a fair bit off, for a 4 door that is sort of neat i'd go the LRA flares

I used the Clark rubber ones, a packet of tech screws and a bit of silicon to adhease the bloody things on. All up cost about $90. While not as flash as the LRA items, I was $450 better off

I currently run 255/85R16 BFG muddies and the rear wheels would rub inside the guard on compression. I wasn't too keen on bump stop extensions so I flipped a set of steel Disco rims to fix this problem. Now no more guard rub, problem sorted

Body lift not nessacary, but I did one anyway. Although at this point in time I wasn't fiting 35's (never thought I would fit 33's as I had been against fitting big tyres for years. The need for diff clerance won in the end ), but always good to plan ahead IMO.

Trav