Thread: Bleeding Brakes on a Series 1 LR - drums!!!

pretty much the same procedure as discs......start at the one furthest from the master cylinder......

will you be any where near me.....?
where abouts is the vehicle.....i might be able to help if i have time.......

Series 1 is unlikely to be difficult, but if you have problems it is worth remembering that it will be easier if you take the drums off and make sure the pistons are fully in to minimise the volume in the cylinders.

As with discs, best to make sure you can loosen all the bleed screws before getting too far into the job.

John

Originally Posted by LRHybrid100

G'day Guys,

Its been a while since I've done any work on a drum braked vehicle and I'm giving Larry a hand over the weekend to bleed the brakes ready for its NSW Blue slip.

So whats the go? Its been 15+ years since I did it last on drums!!!

I have the usual bleeder tub and hoses - anything else we need other than spanners?

Any advice on where to start? Any tips? pls remind me of the procedure!!!

THX

LRH

One "trick"that works for me when bleeding Series' drum brakes is to temporarily do UP ALL the adjusters so the brakes are just about locked ON - this seems to help when pumping the pedal ......make sure you back them off after!

BTW - Are you using one of those one-way valve thingys that attach to the bleeder screw? .....They make the job a thousand times quicker and easier ......they only cost about $10 or $15 at somewhere like Supercheap - definitately well worth getting one before you start!

Originally Posted by LRHybrid100

G'day Guys,

Its been a while since I've done any work on a drum braked vehicle and I'm giving Larry a hand over the weekend to bleed the brakes ready for its NSW Blue slip.

So whats the go? Its been 15+ years since I did it last on drums!!!

I have the usual bleeder tub and hoses - anything else we need other than spanners?

Any advice on where to start? Any tips? pls remind me of the procedure!!!

THX

LRH

Brought this post over from another thread

Start bleeding at the furthest wheel cylinder from the Master Cylinder and work your way back to the closest, get someone to pump the brakes and hold pressure on the pedal while you crack open the bleed nipple (usually the passenger side rear wheel), the brake pedal will travel to the floor, hold it there till you tighten the bleed nipple, repeat until no air, just a steady flow of fluid appears, close nipple and move to next (should be drivers side rear wheel). Keep the Master Cylinder topped up, DO NOT let master Cylinder run dry or get too low, brake fluid washes off easily (detergent) easily, so dont worry about making a mess, if you follow JD's method use the Proper Clamps for clamping off brake hoses, normal locking or vice grips will damage old hoses, Regards Frank.

THX guys,

Well we bled the brakes, got a nice padal pressure then NOTHING!!!

it seems to go from no pressure to then being able to pump the pressure and then works fine. Then try again a few more yards down the road an nothing again.

There are no leaks that we can see and its annoying me!!!

could it be the master cylinder? its a simple system, resevoir under drivers seat runs to a master cylinder which then splits to front / back which in turn then go from drivers to passengers side.

any ideas? want to fix ASAP for blue slip and then FUN

LRH

Originally Posted by LRHybrid100

THX guys,

Well we bled the brakes, got a nice padal pressure then NOTHING!!!

it seems to go from no pressure to then being able to pump the pressure and then works fine. Then try again a few more yards down the road an nothing again.

There are no leaks that we can see and its annoying me!!!

could it be the master cylinder? its a simple system, reservoir under drivers seat runs to a master cylinder which then splits to front / back which in turn then go from drivers to passengers side.

any ideas? want to fix ASAP for blue slip and then FUN

LRH

Those symptoms just about have to be the master cylinder, although the other possibility is that one or more of the snail adjusters is worn smooth and not staying put. It is just possible that there is some sort of problem with the linkage between the pedal and the M/C, such as a pivot pin which is out of round so that the amount of play depends on how it turns.
John

yeah we think its the master cylinder also,

the pivot has lots of slack in too, but doesnt seem to be that. I think Larry need to put a bush around the pivot pin to remove some of the travel anyway. Anyone done likewise?

anyone have any idea of part numbers and suppliers for such a Series 1 master cylinder?

LRH