Thread: Rear Tyre pressure 130

buts the recommended tyre pressure for the original tyre fittment by manufacturer.

you should use recommended trye pressure for your trye

bearing in mind load carried speed travelled and terrain being covered will see variaions in pressure actually used

I run the Range Rover & the Defender (110) at 50psi. Tyres last very well. 65psi sounds right if you've got the 1,500kg payload. But talk to people who run Coopers, because they may delaminate at that pressure .

Gidday, I have been wondering that myself.

I am one of those slack dick-heads who checks tyres by glancing down to see if the rim is touching the bitumen - every 6 months or so!

After getting the new toy feeling after buying a good air compressor, all the tyres were set up as manual - including 65 at the rear.

What an amusing ride quality it had unladen......not so bad on BIG bumps, but on light corrugations, quite a revelation. Thought the bugger would split in half.

With my 500kg camper on the back, it is great at 65 PSI.

Unladen, I now run 45 front and rear. That probably means my insurance is void, I will be arrested and sent to jail, my license will be revoked and all sorts of nasty things, but at least the poor old Defender will be happy!

Cheers all,

Paul

you're talking general running around unladen? 65psi would be max pressure at max load.
try this rough guide. check your pressures cold then check them again hot, aim for a pressure change of around 2-4psi, if less than this lower the initial cold pressure, if more then increase the initial cold pressure.

65 psi is for the stock 7.50 r16s or thereabouts...

yes its right....

its to do with contact patch vs the weight you put on it... If your patient you can work out your own tyres optimum inflation pressures...

heres how..

jack up the vehcile wet the concrete, lower the vehcile so the full weight is on the tyre...

jack up the car and turn the wheel 180 degrees... look at and measure the wet patch...

its area(in inches)*psi should equal half the weight on the axle..

goto somewhere like beaurepairs and somewhere they will have the poster that shows the differences in contact patches at different pressures, for cars...

so long as your contact patch looks like the one in the middle that says "ideal inflation" your laughing, remeber the size/shape of that from your vehicle.. (yours will be bigger as you have a bigger tyre)

when you add weight you just add pressure untill the math tells you that your contact patch is back to the right size.

an easy meausre once you have it figured out is 2 pieces of wire bent at 90 degrees.. slide them into the tyre on the ground like a pair of calipers and tape them together. then when you change the load slide the caliper back into position, if it wont go, add air, if it goes really easy let air out.

I have been running mine at 50psi all round for on road use. I have 285 75 R16 BFG Muds.

I run 7.50/16" steeltreks on my defender wagon and ive been running 36 psi in the front and forty in the back

but im about to change the pressure ,s im going to increase the pressure
i was thinking 45 psi front and 50 psi in the rear

as others have said i would trial different pressure,s untill you have something that you are happy with

on another note i did a advanced driving course and i was told bump your tyre pressure,s up and your car will handle better and your tyres will last longer

my 2 bob

I've been running at 36psi all round, works for me.

Also heard that running at higher pressure puts more stress onto the suspension, chassis, vehicle - bumps and the rest usually absorbed by tyres at lower pressure gets sent straight to the vehicle.

Cheers
Simon