Thread: Loose exhaust manifold nut

id pull the manifold check it forb trueness and do the gasket but Im like that.

youll probabley have damaged the gasket from the hot exhaust gasses screaming past and as a minimum it will have carbon build up on it..

you might get away with just tightening the bolt but Id at least clean it all up first

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

id pull the manifold check it forb trueness and do the gasket but Im like that.

youll probabley have damaged the gasket from the hot exhaust gasses screaming past and as a minimum it will have carbon build up on it..

you might get away with just tightening the bolt but Id at least clean it all up first

Thanks mate, i was going to clean it up before doing it, i am just a bit worried about breaking a stud.

Baz.

gently gently, give it a squirt of innox on all the nuts and let it sit for half an hour or so before starting...

I know I have the advantage of a well decked garage but..

before you start get a small drill (right angle air drills are best for access) with a 3m drill bit and a die grinder (your drill will do in a pinch) with a flat grinding wheel. and buy a set of easy outs...

all up it should cost you less than $100 for all of the above and you'll never be scared of a snapped bolt again...

a stud grip also makes a nice addition..

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

gently gently, give it a squirt of innox on all the nuts and let it sit for half an hour or so before starting...

I know I have the advantage of a well decked garage but..

before you start get a small drill (right angle air drills are best for access) with a 3m drill bit and a die grinder (your drill will do in a pinch) with a flat grinding wheel. and buy a set of easy outs...

all up it should cost you less than $100 for all of the above and you'll never be scared of a snapped bolt again...

a stud grip also makes a nice addition..

I was thinking of warming the engine before I START and loosening the other nuts abit too before tightening once i've cleaned everything, will this help.

I have always nipped nuts & bolts UP slightly before trying to undo them.

Seems to make it a lot easier & successful.

both will help... but im not sure if both at once is a good idea..

if your keen on the nipping idea..use a ringy, solid socket driver ,tbar, angle bar breaker bar any of those is good pinch it up a micky and back it off, essentially what your doing is working the metal binding free. a little penetrating oil, (brakefluid dieso inox or lanolin) at the end of each swing... once you get to backing off dont go past your last swing..

these numbers are pure examples to give the idea but

tighten 15 degrees and back of 30, repeat ad nauseum untill the bolts are finger tight.. but doing this can leave you with swarf on the threads which is bad and will need cleaning from the source (usually the head) as a minimum and helicoils if its really nasty.. the best bit about helicoils is they almost guarentee the problem will not reoccour.

dont try that with the head hot, it has the potential to be disasterous.

heating will also work if you can heat the head without heating the manifold and bolts too much at the same time... idle the engine for a few minutes and (gloves) hold a copper rod or tube onto the stud to draw the heat from it.. a little penetrating oil while its happening will help as will wet rags on the manifold itself.

if you did all the prep work for heating and could touch the head with your bare fingers you might get away without damage if you then applied the nipping technique... but that would be my second to last resort... do not ask about the last resort untill all else has failed...

when you have everything cleaned up mickey mouse put it back together... thers should be a specific pattern for assembley but as a guide line start at the center most point and draw a spiral outwards... thats the order you tighten the studs up to I like to do at least 3 passes to get to final torque and usually use 1/2 then 3/4 and finally full torque although sometimes just going 1/3's is easier.

putting a good antiseize on at this point in time will work wonders for future removal or if youve got it a high temp thread locker from loctite (dont know the number off the top)

Let me guess. Eeerrrr, C4 & a Det?

Baz the first time mine went I tightened it using the same gasket. Next time it snapped! Manifold was probably warped the first time so helped make things worse. Have you enlarged the end stud holes yet? If not and you do remove the manifold it is worth doing.