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Thread: Automatic G/Box transmission Dipstick Tube

  1. #1
    asdisco Guest

    Automatic G/Box transmission Dipstick Tube

    I recently purchased a 300TDI Discovery 1998.
    I have just discovered that the Auto G/Box transmission Dipstick tube has snapped at the point were it is attached to the firewall.
    Has anyone else experienced this? and is there a fix other than draining the G/Box and fitting a new one?

  2. #2
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    is it one piece with the sump.....?


    if yes.....you could use a piece of auto cooler hose and a couple of clamps as a temporary fix.....till you service the transmission.....
    then you can fix...repair or replace the problem bits.....as the hose will eventually start to leak and the clamps will need re-tightening....as auto oil affects the rubber.......

  3. #3
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    I didnt think it was attached to the firewall, that is a dumb place considering the vibration that a diesel puts out it is bound to fracture - must check mine.
    If they are the same as the earlier ones you could remove it and have it welded.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  4. #4
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    they should have a bracket that bolts to one of the bellhousing bolts......

  5. #5
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    use hydraulic hose to make the join, thats simple, altertatively put a well cleaned copper sleeve inside the existing filler and using the new lead free solder solder it there, then fit the top tube and using the same technique solder that in place

    (edited for what might be the most typo/spelling errored post per word Ive done yet......)
    Last edited by Blknight.aus; 17th January 2007 at 08:15 AM. Reason: shocking typos and spelling
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    use hydraulic hose to make the join, thats simple, altertatifely put a well cleaned copper sleave inside the existing filler and using the new lead free solder solder it there, then fit the top tube and using the same tchnique solder that in place


    and try not to alter the overall length of the tube or you wont get the correct reading from the dipstick.....

  7. #7
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    thats why you put the joiner on the inside, you can see how close the parent metal is and if you get te fit snug enough you cant easily drop solder into the auto... solder it dont be tempted to weld, the 400 od degree melting temp of leadless solder should stand up in the engine bay. most welding processes cause some kind of "flaking" (unless your prepatory clean up process is mickey mouse) of the metal that might end up in the tx, solder will form blobs that are generally way to big to get past the strainer. If your really worried about this drop the pan and strainer prior to doing anything.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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