Thread: Cones or Clamps?

What about this:
http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Spring.asp?MID=57

It's a smaller spring within your main spring than only extends when the normal springs run out of extension. Keeps the downforce on the axle even at full (dislocated) suspension.

Simple idea - I like it, but no feedback on how it works in real life.

Regards
David

Seen that before, not a bad idea.

Hate to think what the price would be

Trav

Not too bad I seem to remember. GBP139 rings a bell, which is around AU$250.

You could make a set, but at that price all the hard work has been done for you.

I made up some disconnects for my D1. Basically you cut the short link to the swaybar (with the rubber bushes on one end and the ball joint on the other). Cut it right at the end up against the bit that takes the rubber bushes. You're left with two halves, one with a 1" stalk on it. Then get a short piece of heavy wall tube and weld to the end that takes the rubber bushes. Fit the two halves together, drill and pin with a "hitch pin" I think they're called. (couplea $ from a trailer place). This setup allows whole swaybar to be disconnected, and has not had any probs strength wise when connected....Cheers Chris.

On my 93 Rangie, I left the swaybars on b ut bent the crap out of the rear when I was at Tookeron one day (now closed, bloody shame it was a good park) and removed them altogether.

Vehicle floats a bit more, but who cares. off-road is where old Rangies belong

Trav

1. Retained springs give better stability on cross slopes.

2. The springs will stretch to some degree (depending on the spring rate) when the wheel droops past the point when an unretained spring would dislocate (if the shockie stroke is enough).

3. Generally the front won't articulate as much as the rear - termed unbalanced. Retained rear springs will help the front to articulate more. Whereas the extra droop at the rear with dislocated springs will reduce the articulation at the front, which will cause the body to lean over further (not good if it leans to the downhill side on cross slopes).

IMHO retained springs are best for our conditions. But are not necessary if the shockie stroke does not permit articulation past the free length of the springs.

I will pick up some clamps and have another go on the weekend. I have already started to look at lew springs for the rear with poly bags. Any clues as to what is best?

Thanks for all the replies it has been very interesting.

Originally Posted by Diff

I will pick up some clamps and have another go on the weekend. I have already started to look at lew springs for the rear with poly bags. Any clues as to what is best?

Thanks for all the replies it has been very interesting.

If you don't know what you need rate and length wise, best stump up the $$ to someone like Andrew at Les Richmond Automotive in Bayswater. Vic.
You tell Andrew what you are going to do and how the vehicle is to be loaded, he'll get you to measure bump stop clearance on a level floor and he'll recommend springs to suit. That way you get the most suitable setup for your needs.