Thread: Distributor position 3.9 V8

Originally Posted by D110V8D

You can do it this way....but you may find you are out by 180 degrees on the dizzy.

If this is the case simply turn the crankshaft around again to the TDC mark and you should be at no 1 TDC.

Originally Posted by Rovernaut

As long as when you turn the crank pulley and it lines up with the TDC indicator with the mark on your pulley, and the rotor button is pointing to the number 1 position on the dizzy cap it should fire up, if the TDC mark on the pulley lines up and the rotor button is not on the number 1 plug on the dizzy then you are out one revolution.

The way I did it was, with the distributor removed, turn the crank around until the TDC mark was lined up. Then inserted the distributor so that the rotor button lined up with no.1 spark plug lead.
I figure this should be right.

Before I went out I removed the spark plug and found TDC again on the piston and the mark. In the morning I'll put the spark plug back in and the leads on the cap and see what happens.
I'm beginning to wonder if it was something simple like the coil lead wasn't on properly. As I know I had it set up right.

have you got the correct cylinder numbering sequence and firing order......?











to some it may be a silly question.....but to others.......it could be the solution......

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

have you got the correct cylinder numbering sequence and firing order......?

Should do. I got it from the RAVE CD.

Also remember that you could also be out by 180 Degs.

You need to check that when winding up to TDC that you have compression if there isn't you could be on exhaust stroke.

Also the static setting should be a 6 degrees BTDC with the rotor arm in line with no. 1 spark plug lead, then when running adjusted to 2 Deg BTDC for a low compression engine (8.13:1) and 5 Deg BTDC for high comp engine (9.35:1)

Originally Posted by Utemad

How do you manage to turn the engine over by hand while holding a finger over the no. 1 spark plug hole? I need two hands to turn the engine over. Are you are gorilla or am I a girly boy?

I am not a gorilla, but well over 6 feet tall and 115 kg, maybe I am close... Nah, you are just a girly boy!

This morning I put it all back together and it still didn't run. So I turned the crank over once and pulled the distributor out and turned the rotor around 180 deg. Now it starts!

HOWEVER there is something evil going on
When it fired up there was a nasty clack clack clack noise. I am thinking that my method of finding the TDC was not a good idea. To find top dead centre since I couldn't put my finger over the hole and turn the crank I put a thin screw driver into the spark plug hole and watched it rise up. So my first thought is I have bent a valve by doing this. However the noise doesn't sound like it is coming from no.1 cylinder. More like no.8.

Whatever it is I can't drive it like that

%$^#$&%$%*^&(

It sounds the same as a loose tappet.

Would have having the timing 180 deg out damaged a push rod or valve or something in that area?

Could it be a cylinder 1 problem but I am hearing the clank via the plenum chamber vacuum outlets on the 2,4,6,8 side of the motor?

You'd have to be extremely unlucky to have damaged anything checking the timing that way because the screwdriver can't reach the valves.

Juts having the ignition timing out won't stuff anything mechanical provided that it NEVER ran under its own steam.

If you have the timing all out of kilter then the clacking may only be detonation of fuel with the crank way out of phase, preventing the thing from running. If you have spark WAY before top dead centre then everything will be lumpy and rattle like all get out.