Thread: RRC gear selectors need to remove gearbox?

I think an 81 would have the LT95 4 speed.

If so, you don't need to remove the gearbox to get at the reverse gear selector fork.

There is a rectangular cover on the left side, where the idler gear is and you can access the lower end of the reverse gear selector fork.

Near this cover, you will see the head of a bolt - this bolt screws into gear case and the reverse gear selector fork. The selector fork also pivots on the bolt.

On top of the gearbox is a cover over over the rest of the selectors.

You will need to pull the gearbox, if you need to pull the selector rails out though.

You only need to remove both covers to pull the reverse selector fork out. And you should be able to see what is wrong with the selectors.

Hi
Thanks for that I think Bradtot told me the same thing on a diferent thread but when I looked in the book I got a bit confused.

I suppose if the selector is buggered I have to remove the box.
If the box/gears are buggered I'll have to remove the box.

I have a spare gearbox, (LT95) either way it looks like It'll have to be swapped unless it's just the fork. Before the reverse gear went I had a hard time getting 4th now and again. Now I can't get reverse 4th is OK?


I dunno maybe I'm best to just replace the box and be done with it.

If you have access to an engine crane only, then you can swap 'boxes easily enough by yourself in a day ( Make it a weekend to be on the safe side). On level ground using the crane thru the side windows you can support the box using a strap thru the gearstick aperture. The only tricky parts are: Undoing the top nuts of the bellhousing - either loosen them prior to unbolting the crossmember or have a long extension handy as it is hard to see them when the engine/box is tilted back. Use a six sided socket to undo the nuts, as sometimes a 12 sided socket damages said nuts. Lower the box onto somthing like a piece of HD cardboard or similar, so when you jack the side of the car up to get it out and the new box back in, you don't damage the box and or the surface you're working on. Undoing the breathers watch out for the copper washers, and lastly, balancing the new box on the strap so as you raise it, it goes up on the same angle as the tilted engine. That last part might take a few tries as you have to compensate for the transfer side of the box on two axis'. You may need to use bolts to start the two halves back together, but otherwise it's relativly easy. (In a LR way..)