Thread: Castor Correction - swivels or radius arms

Has,nt what HSV done only alter the angle of the bush,s and not the carstor angle

Originally Posted by rangieman

Has,nt what HSV done only alter the angle of the bush,s and not the carstor angle

you being serious or just taking the mick?

if your being serious, yes it will change the castor angle. It also changes the wheelbase.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

you being serious or just taking the mick?

if your being serious, yes it will change the castor angle. It also changes the wheelbase.

I should have explained it better it will not return the castor to standard specks
if you wanted standard castor specks the radius arms would have to be longer
When you lift suspension in the front your front diff is forced forwards at the top of the diff which tilts the bottom of you diff backwards hence throwing your castor out

umm if you crank bend the arms the axle housing will be back at the same angle as it was, castor angle problem caused by suspension lift solved..

now the axle will be closer to rear of the vehicle
add some washers to infront of the locating bush on the chassis

solved...


If you only put a single bend in or a long bend by pressing the center of the arm downwards then you get some interesting hassles.

With a decent amount of suspension lift, correcting the castor by means other than rotating the swivel, will usually cause driveshaft vibration (remember the front uni-joints are not equal angles on coil sprung rovers).

Cranking the radius arms (to correct pinion angle) combined with rotating the swivels (to correct castor) is the best combination. A double cardin driveshaft is best to eliminate driveshaft vibration and then it is more important to correct castor by rotating the swivels.

urmmmmmm

if you bend the radius arms (locating arms, hockey sticks, bloody big things I always hit my headon when sliding out from under a rover on a trolly) so that the castor angle is correct the pinion should be at the same angle as it was before... unless you have some wierdo ifs/live beam combo front axle.

The problem comes when your lift takes the Ujs past their optimal working angle which is when you need to think about getting yourself a CV setup drive shaft (exxy but nice) or a double cardan setup.

This allows you to mess with your shafts icomplimentary angles a fair bit more.

As I understand it, there are two bends usually made in the radius arm, making it into a kind of stretched Z shape. One bend to correct the bush alignment at the chassis end, and the other to correct the castor. The second bend is the one that tips the diff nose back down correcting castor, but putting the strain on the uni joints.

I wonder of doing the first bend to get the bush alignment back, but not doing the second bend to correct castor, thus leaving the diff nose pointed up at the transfer box, would alleviate some of the chances of the uni joints complaining? Rotating the swivels could then fix the castor.

Getting the length back in the radius arms seems to be the tricky bit. Adding washers on the front bush can only go so far before the bushes are over compressed, and you'll only evr get half of the thickness of the washers you add after both bushes compress and equalise. I suppose if the arm comes out only 1mm shorter, then a 2mm washer should do it.

Paul

Originally Posted by HSVRangie

No I have cranked arms on my RR.

they shrunk about 1-2 mm.

Fit 2m washer and all is good.

Michael.

It works!

But just to be the legal guy on this one... It isnt legal.

But it does work!