D1 3.5l V8 1993

**Gidget** · 8th May 2007, 04:12 PM

Ok guys I have posted about this somewhere on here last time it happened, but it must have been is someone else's thread, as I have searched all the threads from me....(I think)

So half way up a hill at cruiser park on the weekend the motor just cut out then sort of like bunny hopped for a few times before dying.
It was like it was starving for fuel, but we had heaps of fuel, air cleaner was good, & I only just replaced the fuel filter before we left.
Now last time it turned out to be a dodgy lead from the coil to the dizzy (which I replaced), well I thought it was, because after I replaced it, everything was fine.
So I popped the bonnet & grabbed hold of the HT lead & got a whole lot of what for for doing it

, so after killing the engine I gave the lead a good wrap with insulation tape at the coil end & a good wiggle back into the coil & we were away again, this happened a half a dozen times over the weekend, but a quick wiggle seamed to fix everything.
Untill we got 100m from home, for love or money it wouldn't run other than this surging effect. This went on for about 15 minutes while I was pushing for a bit (lucky it is down hill) & then jumping in for a rest & to try & start it again. So after about 15 minutes of this it went like there was not a problem

So this is obviously a problem as I was lucky it wasn't at the park or half way home.
So I thought I would start with the bit that zapped me, the coil & the lead again.
Well no one lists a part number for a coil

so has anyone got any help here ????
And someone was also mentioning things like crank angle sensors ????

Any help would be appreciated... Huge thanks again

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 8th May 2007, 04:36 PM

hmm nothing written on BUB91's coil,,(original huh

)
there is a capacitor,
a lead off into the maf loom
and the others---

crank sensor???

mcrover · 8th May 2007, 04:43 PM

From what youve said it could be Many things, I wouldnt go changing the coil straight up, some one will be able to tell you how to test it (measure the ohms across the coil but you need to know what it should be).

I would start with the leads, if your getting zapped, that would be a good start.

Next I would check your plugs, see if any look wet or darker than the others, any build up could tell you whats happening.

I would then look at your fuel pump and wiring, the earth leads can give trouble as do the plugs so check they are all in good nick.

That gives you something to start with, intermitant faults like that normally end up being fuel related but Im not saying it will be 1 or the other as Im not looking at the car.

Someone more knolageable on the 3.5 may be able to pin point it better for you, im more a Diesel guy.

**Gidget** · 8th May 2007, 04:55 PM

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

hmm nothing written on BUB91's coil,,(original huh

)
there is a capacitor,
a lead off into the maf loom
and the others---

crank sensor???

There is nothing that I can find on the coil, it has been painted black a few times which doesn't help.

**camel_landy** · 8th May 2007, 05:35 PM

Sounds like the HT leads are knackered.

HTH

M

**PhilipA** · 8th May 2007, 06:58 PM

The coil should be a Bosch.
I posted the numbers a couple of months ago.( For a 3.9 Rangie, should be same as is a 14CUX)
But it is now obsolete according to Bosch tech assistance.
I suggest that you call a specialist like Graeme Cooper who can supply you with a compatable coil.
Be careful as Bosch reckons that a 727 is incompatable, but someone on the forum has been using one for years in his Disco without a problem.
Regards Philip A

**harry** · 8th May 2007, 07:34 PM

two suggestions, [i have a 3.9 disco]
1 / disconnect the battery, walk around the car 4 times and reconnect
if it goes, blame the computer.
2 / replace the leads.
from what you said sounds as if the coil is working [its rare for coils to fail]
mine used to just stop any where and all i had to do was turn the ign off and re start it with the key - awfully exciting when you have just passed a b-double and dropped back in on him.!!!!!!!
ricks 4wd fixed that - but i don't know how!!!!!!
plugs rarely fail, but then i don't know how often you change them.
change the leads.

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 8th May 2007, 10:51 PM

*bump*

**Gidget** · 9th May 2007, 06:58 AM

Ok I did e resistance test on the coil lead, whilst I was shaking the crap out of it. The multi meter read 5.7 - 6.5 but that was it.... I wriggled, shook & pulled whilst it was hooked up, but it appears to be ok.

I pulled the coil out for a look & cleaned the earth strap connections from the body to the motor while I was there.
The coil is a Bosch, after scraping the paint & crap off, all I could find was a number on the end of it (0221122332) means nothing to anyone I have asked..
The connection where the HT Lead plugs in, is very green & corroded looking inside. I will try to get in there with a bit of emery paper & clean it out.

There was a funny looking thing attached to the positive side of the coil.
The wire hooked up to the positive side of the coil & the body of the little silver thing was just bolted to the body, no other wires coming out of it anywhere ?? It had some numbers on it as well (AMPOHM 1uF 150V)..

**PhilipA** · 9th May 2007, 08:57 AM

That is a capacitor ( suppressor) to stop ignition noise in the radio.

If I were you I would discount all the ignition bits by replacing them.
A dizzy cap, rotor,plugs and leads are not all that much in the scheme of things, and they should be replaced about every 100K anyway, And I bet they haven't.
Be sure to buy a "Lucas" branded rotor as aftermarket ones are known to die early. They are pricey but woith it.( just like Linda Evangalista)

If it still plays up, you know its the coil,If it is electrical at all.

Of course it could be the TPS.
Regards Philip A

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