Thread: Rear Power Window - Fixed

Originally Posted by Iain_B

When I bought my Discovery, the rear windows were not working. Front ones worked fine though.

Today I decided to fix them. Using the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual and a multimeter, I checked the fusese fuse - both working, then tracing from the switches - all were working, ( previous owner had 6 spare window switches in the glove box) and when powering up just using two wires, both winodws worked. Tracing the wiring back, I found the window ECU was not providing power to the switches, thus no up and down.

I took the ECU apart and there was a dry joint on the rear window power relay. I soldered it properly, (and I also resoldered all the rest of the power connections as they looked a bit dodgy) and a quick test showed everything is now working.

So, if your rear windows don't go up or down, and it's not the fuses, then if yo have a post 95 model, it's likely to be the same dry joint inside the window ECU ( black box with two connector block under the passenger side of the dash)

I wonder how many window ECU's get replaced for want of a tiny bit of solder.

That's a project I have been meaning to get around too.
I took a lokk at the ECU and it was a bit dificult to get to quickly so I left it.
The rears only work when they want to.
The dry joint has been known about for a long time. It's any easy fix.

my 93 Rangie has had the same prob...... so i cut the rear doors off

Mick

Originally Posted by mickrangie

my 93 Rangie has had the same prob...... so i cut the rear doors off

Mick

THAT'S FAIR

plugging in a grinder is far more fun then soldering

Finally got around to fixing the rear windows.
I was trying to get the ECU out, but found it easier to do the fix on Discoweb by pulling off the front plastic cover and sliding the circuit board out. And low and behold the joint that needed soldering was exactly the same one as in the Discoweb Tutorial.
So some one at the ECU factory was goofing off on that particular solder spot.
Took all of 20mins to pull out, examine and find the problem solder joint fix and reinstall .
And they work perfectly now

Originally Posted by Iain_B

When I bought my Discovery, the rear windows were not working. Front ones worked fine though.

Today I decided to fix them. Using the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual and a multimeter, I checked the fusese fuse - both working, then tracing from the switches - all were working, ( previous owner had 6 spare window switches in the glove box) and when powering up just using two wires, both winodws worked. Tracing the wiring back, I found the window ECU was not providing power to the switches, thus no up and down.

I took the ECU apart and there was a dry joint on the rear window power relay. I soldered it properly, (and I also resoldered all the rest of the power connections as they looked a bit dodgy) and a quick test showed everything is now working.

So, if your rear windows don't go up or down, and it's not the fuses, then if yo have a post 95 model, it's likely to be the same dry joint inside the window ECU ( black box with two connector block under the passenger side of the dash)

I wonder how many window ECU's get replaced for want of a tiny bit of solder.

Iain,

The same thing was happening to my 97 Disco, some times they did and 5 second later they stopped.
I pulled out the circuit board and sure enough, one solder joint was very thin and cracked. I fixed it and re-did other dodgy ones, and now the windows operate like a champion

Now I understand what Blknight Dave, said about the South African build being better. I think my board was done just prior to afternoon tea
There was a mad rush for Earl Grey and cucumber sandwiches..

thanks for reminding me another intermittent problem to fix, lucky i don;t sit in the back,



john

Originally Posted by JohnE

thanks for reminding me another intermittent problem to fix, lucky i don;t sit in the back,



john

John,

It is a very easy one.
I followed the pictures