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Thread: 85 Rangie - Ball Joint replacement advice

  1. #1
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    85 Rangie - Ball Joint replacement advice

    How difficult is it to change the ball joints on an 85 Rangie. the steering wanders a little bit, so I figure I may as well investigate changing them. From what I have read so far, it seems a pretty straight forward thing (as if!). Can anyone offer any advice on what best way to go about them. Should I change the drag link first, then the track rod ball joints? Does the steering box arm bush need to be replaced at the same time?

    Cheers,

  2. #2
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    Check your panhard rod bushes before buying the balljoints as these are usually the culprits, if your steering box leaks then use urethane in place of the original rubber ones. Also check that the nut on the end of the pitman arm is as tight as humanly possible.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  3. #3
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    if you end up wanting to replace, service or inspect ball joints on your rangie, prepare a little:
    Get a handy pack of good size split pins - over and above the normal concerns, the visual state of the split pin can indicate what the ball joint has been through, and a tell tale for you as to which one you've serviced.
    Try using greasable ball joints. I know it's somthing extra to service, but the logic is this: Squirting a little grease is better than replacing the whole unit.
    You may or may not know this in removing the joint itself - undo the castle nut from the ball joint but leave it on the end of the shaft, then use a decent hammer and hit the receiver ( the other bit the joint fits into) on the side, don't hit ball joint at all. After a few hits the joint will drop out of the receiver, but not drop on your foot (etc) as the nut is still in place.
    Be prepared for destruction of some of the nuts and bolts that are used to clamp the ends of the tie rods and the adjusters. After this long, it is highly probable that they are rusted tight, and it will be hard to remove. The clamps themselves should be re-usable, but having some spare nuts and bolts to suit ( another handy pack from Supercheap?) won't hurt.
    And last, budget or figure a way for a wheel alignment The magic number is 2mm pointing outwards.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for your replies. I shall look further into it. I totally agree about having the bits ready. Too many times have I gone and pulled something apart, only to realise I didnt have a component, to then have to arrange to get the bit!

  5. #5
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    undo the castle nut from the ball joint but leave it on the end of the shaft, then use a decent hammer and hit the receiver ( the other bit the joint fits into) on the side, don't hit ball joint at all.
    Langy omitted to mention the use of a big hammer head or steel block behind the receiver to give something solid to whack, or the component may move a little defeating the purpose of the thump.
    The big hit seems to momentarily distort the receiver & allows the taper to come out easily, especially if facing downwards.

    I have used his method for years without the need for a "Special Tool".

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