Thread: Bullbar Removal help needed!

Originally Posted by paulthepilot_5

I am trying to remove an alloy bullbar of a Series III landy. The nuts on two of the bolts were rusted to buggery and could not be moved, so i decided to remove the bolts by cutting the heads off and knocking them out, Big Mistake! . Unfortunatly i did not think up this idea too well, and realised that the bolts can only come out from the top of the chassis rails (yes, the side i cut the heads off). So i am now left with the chalenge of trying to cut off the other end of the bolt with the nut on it, happly recessed away in the front chassis rail, No way the angle grinder is going to get into there! see pic. So dose any one have any great ideas for removing a bolt in such a situation? Buy the way, a 9inch angle grinder to the front chasis rail is not an option! help would be greatly appreciated!

If you know anyone with oxy gear it will make short work of them

Reciprocating saw? Hacksaw blade with a parallel handle, bolt cutters, drill a hole and chisel the rest?

Good luck.

Cheers
Simon

Originally Posted by abaddonxi

Reciprocating saw? Hacksaw blade with a parallel handle, bolt cutters, drill a hole and chisel the rest?

Good luck.

Cheers
Simon

Eureka, drilling the bolt and then belting it with a cold chissel sounds like the easiest option, i will try that toomorow. I might also be able to get a Dremel with a cutoff wheel on it in there

Not a good position to be in. The oxy idea is the easiest, or even better a die grinder. I don't think there is room to get bolt cutters or a nut splitter in, although you might just manage to get a nut splitter in there.
I doubt the chassis will stand using a chisel, although you might manage it with a very sharp chisel and a light hammer, particularly if you can wedge something behind the nut to spread the impact away from the edge of the hole the bolt goes through.

John

Oxy would be the way I would go.

I dont see you getting anything else in there, the drill could work, use a pilot first and then a 12mm or 1/2" drill and you wont have to chisel bugger all.

An air hacksaw like the one below will do it.


There are cheap ones available or I have access to one if you need it.

And I thought I was the only one stupid enough to do this.....

I tried all of the above..

you wont get a good enough shot with a dremel which is a pity casue a diamond stone cutting wheel from a dental lab (TY swmbo) makes really short work of bolts and aluminium.

a grinder wont fit

An oxy runs the risk of hurting the chassis..

The sawsall might have worked but I didnt have a thin enough blade to get in between the bolts...(and leaves you with another problem later)

I wound up using a 3mm longshank burr in a drill took about 10mins to cut 2 sides out of each bolt and then tapping the remnents off with a pin punch then fingering the remnents of the bolt shank up the hole and out...(have a magnet on a stick handy)

DO NOT CUT THE BOLT.... I made that mistake on the first one thinking It'd be easy then the bugger fell over while I was trying to work it out and is now somewhere in the chassis of a SWB III in townsville probabley giving some mechanic hell while trying to locate "an annoying rattle"

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

And I thought I was the only one stupid enough to do this.....

I tried all of the above..

you wont get a good enough shot with a dremel which is a pity casue a diamond stone cutting wheel from a dental lab (TY swmbo) makes really short work of bolts and aluminium.

a grinder wont fit

An oxy runs the risk of hurting the chassis..

The sawsall might have worked but I didnt have a thin enough blade to get in between the bolts...(and leaves you with another problem later)

I wound up using a 3mm longshank burr in a drill took about 10mins to cut 2 sides out of each bolt and then tapping the remnents off with a pin punch then fingering the remnents of the bolt shank up the hole and out...(have a magnet on a stick handy)

DO NOT CUT THE BOLT.... I made that mistake on the first one thinking It'd be easy then the bugger fell over while I was trying to work it out and is now somewhere in the chassis of a SWB III in townsville probabley giving some mechanic hell while trying to locate "an annoying rattle"

I am not too worried about slightly damaging the chassis as it is full of rust and will not be registered again, but i will avoid damage to it if possible. The alloy mounting plate of the bullbar would probably melt if i used an Oxy on it, and i don't want that to happen