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Thread: V8 exhaust manifold studs

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    V8 exhaust manifold studs

    Hi all,

    I'm trying to get the studs out of some 3.5L V8 exhaust manifolds. These are the three that hold the first pipe on. The first side came out ok. Just used some WD-40, flattened the sides with a grinder, and unscrewed them with a shifter. Easy.

    But... The other side (the right hand side) won't come out. I've tried the above method but the studs just broke off down to the bottom of my grinds. I've cut a groove into the top with a hacksaw and tried an impact driver. Nothing.

    Is there a chance that they are not screw in studs, but infact cast into the manifold? Any reason why one side might be different to the other? Could it be a nasty type of loctite someone used (to ruin my day)?

    Thanks in advance for any ideas...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    St Helena,Melbourne
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    I would try heating the manifold and see if that loosens it otherwise may have to drill it out and retap the thread.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  3. #3
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    Try an industrial product called "Yield" made by Chemsearch of Alexandria, Sydney. Usually sold by engineer's suppliers like Blackwoods. Expensive but worth it. They call it rust dissolver. I call it miracle fluid. Otherwise get out the heating torch and heat the end of the manifold and the studs to a dull red and let air cool, then you should be able to get the vice grips on the stub and screw it out. Some Yield or WD40 applied when cool does help.
    URSUSMAJOR

  4. #4
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    Use some WD40 or Brian's "Yield" on the threads. By all means heat too if you want.

    Then get two nuts the correct size and screw them both onto the stud until they are completely threaded on.

    Next, with one spanner hold the one nearest the end firm while you undo the other nut again with a second spanner (it should come up against the first). Tighten the nuts together as tightly as you dare without shearing the stud.

    Then put your spanner onto the inner nut only and unscrew it.

    If all has gone well the stud should unscrew with it. Once out you can use the two spanners to free the nuts again. Works 98% of the time and you can reuse nuts and studs (unless they have other damage of course).

    Chris

  5. #5
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    bugger, bad luck mate.
    I had heard of this happeing before so last time I removed the pipes I drowned them in wd40 every other night for about 10 days.
    They came out a treat.
    I have also seen replacement studs/bolts made from a copper or copper compound that can be used and apparently they don't get stuck.

    Anyhow back to your problem

    You can drill a partial hole of a smaller diameter than the bolt then screw in a tool ,(dont know the name) like a drill bit in reverse. I have only used one a couple of times and supercheap sell a cheap version of them.
    Whatever it's called.

  6. #6
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    Don'ts-
    Dont use an impact tool or hammer & chisel on cast iron. you might get away with it but more likely you will break a piece of the SAE flange off.

    Dont ever use the convential "Easy-Out". They are tapered and have a wedging action when turned and tend to spread the broken stud out tighter against the threaded hole. There are better ideas out there. Look around the specialist tool shops. A good one is to buy a drill bit with left hand helix and chuck it in a reversible drill and turn the drill bit anti-clockwise (for right hand threads). The thrust of the cutting action will often turn the broken stud out of the hole.
    URSUSMAJOR

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