YarnMaster
today i went and test drove a 95 110 table top. looked prety good on the outside. but a few things need atention fan switch are they expencive? blinker and hi lo beam combo switch are they expencive?
also had alot of back lash i had a quick look and it seems to be in the rear diff and in the drive flanges. im not concerned about this too much but does this model have the gear box that wears out the output shaft splines of the gearbox/tranfer?? the engine started real easy from stone cold no noises or excess smoke ect but seemed prety weak down low in the rev range till it came on boost are they all like this? it improved a little when it warmed up. theres an oil leak around the back of the injector pump some where under the air filter and i also seemed to have no vacume to the brake booster ie brakes hard and not very good. . is the vac pump run off the injector pump or alt? thats about it its the only fender table top anywhere local so i will probly buy it worts and all but would be good to know what im up for.
sorry for the long poorly set out post
Swaggie
Check where the backlash is (i.e. lock centre diff, etc). That year was about the time they fixed the gearbox lubrication problem, but it only takes 6 bolts to pull the pto plate off the t-case and check if there is any wear on the splines.
Plenty of tweaks for more power. But they can be a bit of a slug off-boost.
Vac pump runs off the back of the alternator.
ForumSage
Where are you located? Spotted a 110 tray top in Canberra today. It was sitting in one of the yards in Fyshwick.
YarnMaster
i think the back lash was less with the center diff locked but dident realy have time to play. is it a big job to fix or likely to fail completly? what gearbox/transfer are in them lt230/380 or somthing ?
YarnMaster
thats the one mate. im in canberra . they wacked it out the front today do i could have a look see.Originally Posted by George130
Moderator
The oil leak under the air filter is probably the fuel lift pump. Pretty common problem, the pump is $75-150, broken lift pump in combination with a dirty fuel filter can drop the power a fair bit. The turbo noticeably better on cold days.
Where are you? If you give us your location I'm sure one of us will offer a comparison test drive.
Cheers
Simon
YarnMaster
SupporterThis may be a bit of a ramble but...
I picked up a 95 dual cab recently which had a few similar issues. do a search for worn main shaft splines, R380 and youll find some nice pictures of main shaft worn +50%. i did the cheap fix of fitting a new transfer input gear which engages on more of the splines. This removed most of the gear backlash. Just converted front bearings to oil yest, short axle CV had worn splines at flanges (dry from poorly maintained greased bearings) so I slipped in a CV from my disco. No backlash now!
After replacing the t-belt (original as far as i could tell from paint marks and very untouched bolts) with 170k (just lucky) on the clock I adjusted the fuel stop on the inj pump, that fixed the turbo lag to a certain extent.
The vacuum on a 300tdi is generated by a cam driven vacuum pump... it is located behine the injection pump. Oil leak may just be from the vacuum pump outer face... this could explain both the oil leak and the lack of brake vacuum.
As you have already stated... just get it and deal with the little dramas.
(after pulling a toymotor puslux 2.8d head off today... once again Ill take english engineering over a toyo shambles anyday)
anyway
Steve
ForumSage
It looked nice as I drove by. Quite clean. The yard has only been around for about a year.
No idea on the rig's condition.
The switch for the blinkers and high beam is about $180 I think.
There are a couple of places in Canberra where you can have it checked.
Canberra Motor Works, Morwood Motors and the Main Stealer. Moorwood has just moved to up the road from the yard. They are Better Brakes and Steering (BBS).
I you are interested get one of these places to check it out for you. What was the price they were asking?
This is what I noticed
Winch Bar (No winch)
spot lights
Steel tray with tool box under.
Stock rims and Tyres
And you are right there arn't many around these parts for sale. That makes the second since I bought mine.
YarnMaster
i used to work for morwoods used to be good but not so sure now that the old boy sold it on. there asking 9.990 for it its got no rego at present. i talked him down to 9k with 3months act rego or 8 k with out. the tyres are prety much rooted one seat belt buckle is stuffed the fan switch is stuffed. the hi/lo combo switch works but not spectacular. its going to cost him at least a grand for act rego as its a comerical with out the other trinkets like tyres ect so i may just pick it up with out rego and just fix the **** with the cash saved . it also has a half arsed home made snorkel and a after market fuel tank and looks to have 2 fuel filters one at the very rear and one in the engine bay.
Swaggie
460cixy,
So far I've counted brake vac pump($400+) Rear axles and flanges ($770 for maxi axles and flanges) Possibly all wheel bearings need service, and/ or replacement. All hub seals will need replacement if fitting MD halfshafts etc to run them in oil to prevent spline wear. This dosen't take into account the possible replacement of stub axles due to seal surface and/ or bearing surface wear. CV's. Are they in good shape IE splines and flanges? ($400 each for good'uns) and drive flanges to suit. (MD H'duty $130 each)then there is the gearbox. MY95 has the ubiquitous spline wear problem, ask Inc about his experience in that department, quite pricey. The fact of the matter is that a cheap defender is not a cheap defender.
But above all else, get it checked out by an expert BEFORE you hand over your hard earned. Otherwise you will be supporting all the repair shops and spare parts outlets for ages to come, by giving THEM all your hard earned.
Sorry to paint such a pic, but the reality is that I see vehicles like this every day, and These problems can sometimes be only the tip of the iceberg.....
JC
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