Thread: Series idle problem

Adrian,

I'm not a mechanic... but this is what I'd check 1st:

• does the idler screw need adjusting ? does screwing it in/out make any difference ?
  
• Is the fuel filter full of gunk ? when was the last time it was changed ?
  
• Is the choke stuck on ? It's butterfly valve in the carby should be open (vertical) when off.

Hope that can help, and my apologies if you've already checked this stuff.

Pete

Originally Posted by xxXX_LR V8_XXxx

Adrian,

I'm not a mechanic... but this is what I'd check 1st:

• does the idler screw need adjusting ? does screwing it in/out make any difference ?
  
• Is the fuel filter full of gunk ? when was the last time it was changed ?
  
• Is the choke stuck on ? It's butterfly valve in the carby should be open (vertical) when off.

Hope that can help, and my apologies if you've already checked this stuff.

Pete

Thanks Pete iam no mechanic either so any help is really appreciated. ill check these things
Regards Adrian

All of the above. But if you are not familiar with carburetter engines with no engine management computer, the tendency to stop if left idling may be fairly normal. While in theory these engines will idle indefinitely (although not a very good idea) it is quite common for them not to do so. Unless the engine is thoroughly warm it will need exactly the right choke setting to keep running - and this will no longer be the right setting as it warms up a bit more! Also, if the thermostat is not working properly it will never warm up or stay warm when idling, and you will never get a stable idle.

Anything less than optimal in the ignition (points, condenser, timing, coil, ignition leads) or in the carburetion (choked filter, air leak in pump suction line, dirty carburetter, worn needle valve, worn throttle spindle, air leaks in manifold or PCV or vacuum system) will prevent a stable idle as well, as will varying compression due to sticky valves, poor valve seats etc.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

All of the above. Anything less than optimal in the ignition (points, condenser, timing, coil, ignition leads) or in the carburetion (choked filter, air leak in pump suction line, dirty carburetter, worn needle valve, worn throttle spindle, air leaks in manifold or PCV or vacuum system) will prevent a stable idle as well, as will varying compression due to sticky valves, poor valve seats etc.

After going thru all this to sort out a rough idle in my 2A, I found that my vacuum advance unit on the side of the dizzy had sh*t itself. Do the easy stuff first: check air leaks, points, condenser, timing / leads etc... then look at the carby and further.