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Thread: Defender TD5 cruise control

  1. #41
    whitetd5 Guest
    yepp, I am interested, how much?

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    South Yundreup,WA.
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    7,468
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    Bugger, always 2002 on flashable ecus.
    2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
    2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
    1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
    1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
    2003 WK Holden Statesman
    Departed
    2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
    84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
    98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed

    Facta Non Verba

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Wodonga
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    Okay, I have a 2003 build, so I presume it is compatible as I cannot find any numbers on it. Are they underneath? or is it a sticker on top?

    Anyway, assuming mine will comply, you can definatly put me down for one

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    SYDNEY -in the shire.....
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    bump......

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Rockingham, Perth
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    164
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    I'm in

  6. #46
    tombraider Guest
    No worries guys...

    I'll price it up once I get the gear...

    Bulk wire is cheaper than shorter lengths... etc..

    The choice of switches is the greatest expense in the kit so I'll offer some options...

    Let me finish my rotation (just got home) which ends Sunday night and I'll get onto it.
    Last edited by tombraider; 14th August 2007 at 11:38 PM.

  7. #47
    tombraider Guest
    OK.... Heres some data for you guys eager to do this project....

    http://trt.net.au/files/TD5Cruise.pdf

    The above link will give a graphic of the wiring harness..

    And show some of the components needed for the job.

    http://trt.net.au/files/TRTDefenderTD5Cruise.pdf

    This link is the full installation instructions.... For the kit...

    And heres the Pics...


    Dash removed.. The wire at the front is the new loom...
    The pale blue wire in the back ground was the wire I pushed through as a 'tracer' to help pull the loom through.
    I worked "top down" and fed the wire from dash to ECU, not the other way around.


    Heres the cable through the bulkhead.


    Cut the nipple off the loom (see where the blue wire is) and feed the trace wire through. It makes it easier to pull the loom through.

    LANOTEC - Prevents the wire binding on the rubber and makes feeding the cable easy.


    Loom in position. Now its time to get underneath and secure the loom in place!


    Starting wherever you like, cable tie the new loom in place using a Ludicrous quantity of cable ties! Make sure it can't rub on anything it shouldn't

    I followed the loom down the side and up to the ECU.. Easy!


    Another shot showing loom heading down under the vehicle.


    Following the loom that was there... Lots of cable ties.
    I've left the ends on in the pics making it easier for you to see.


    And up into the Seat Box it goes....

    Hard to get a DSLR to take a shot from this close under here!


    Looking forward between brake drum and chassis rail.


    SEE the Safety Glasses?!
    Wear them when your under the vehicle... They'll save your eyes from crud falling into them!

    In this pic you can also see that for ALL THAT WORK, the cables finally through at both ends!


    Depending on how you choose to switch the system (dual switch, single switch, rocker type setup) will affect this bit...

    Mark and drill the holes for the switches....
    And before you ask, I haven't been able to find these 12mm dia switches anywhere to get some more...


    Heres the back of the dash... The switches on mine are going on opposite ends...

    A nice rocker switch would allow a single switch install.


    Ahhh the good old Dremel...
    I couldnt find my 1/2" drill so Dremel to the rescue!


    Heres where the power feed for the cruise splices into the factory loom.
    This is the connector for the Temperature Gauge.
    Its just tapping a 12v feed.
    I insulated it after this pic!


    Switches in place and loom connected....
    Use more cable ties to secure the sub loom to prevent rattles and it coming apart on corrugations!


    Neat hey!


    With the pins on the black plug found, the loom is pushed into the correct connections and the Plug refitted.
    More cable ties to help support the loom were added!


    Dash back in place and the Switches are visible...
    The one you see here is the "Reset/Resume" one.


    And heres the other one!
    This one is "Set/Accelerate"

    And there you have it!

    Total time to install... 1.5 hours...

    Result... Brilliant....

    Its great to be able to "cruise" without throttle use... Your right foot will love you for it.



  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
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    I tell you toomby it might have taken you only 1.5 hours but that would have taken me at least a day Not including procrastination
     2005 Defender 110 

  9. #49
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
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    Looking GREAT - so the kits will be available?

    LRH
    Disco 4 SDV6 Auto
    Disco 4 SDV8 Dual Cab Project
    Disco 2 M57 Extra Cab Project
    Foton Tunland Cummins ISF
    Disco 1 3 door 4.6 V8 Auto
    RRC V8 Auto "Classic" Softdash
    RRC 300 TDI Auto
    Disco 1 TD5 Auto Buggy
    Disco 1 300 Tdi Auto Ute
    SAME Explorer 70HP 4x4 Tractor plus Nell Loader
    Subaru GDA WRX
    Triumph Bonneville SE
    Yamaha TTR250





  10. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Yass NSW
    Posts
    7,239
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    Well I know I defiantly don't have a NN ECU

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