Sounds like a bad batch to me....
have them dynamicaly balance the empty rim and check it for warp and runout while they do that. any deviation in lateral run out of more than 3mm from center (6mm total) is too much and I like to keep radial run out of the beads (not the lip) to less than .5mm
once the rims heavy spots have been identified (they should be less than 5g if you have any) and any rims with radial run out have been replaced get them to refit the rubber
If it doesnt balance up with less than X amount of weight in total and less than Y amount in any one spot have them remove and rotate the tyre on the rim.
X and Y will vary depending on how pedantic you want to be.
X when i do it is 150gm total and Y is 100g as thats the largest single weight available.
For high speed rubber i drop back to 75/30 but get nervous if im near that
Acceptable limits for r16 7.50 rubber (think steel treks like the army use is 300/150
the bigger the rubber the more weight you need to add.
On that note Ive been known (with the owners concent) to trim a little off of the side lugs of fatter rubber and the side biters if I cant get it to play the game any other way. I wont do this on anything other than mud or really agressive AT rubber.
Theres lots of causes for rubber that just wont balance and IF your not happy with the weighting of the rubber a reputable dealer will get you new rubber in.
Just tell them I do a lot of fourwheel driving and constantly change pressure and there is a risk of the weights dislodging the tyres need to be as close to 0/0 as possable before weights are added for safety reasons.
on that not depending on the size of the tyre the pressure you run and the speed you drive at the wheels can be up to 15g out in one spot and you wont notice it.
With split rims its even possable to 0/0 a tyre without any weights if your inclined to spend the time doing it.


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