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Thread: whats a better safer and stronger option with shock mods

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MickG View Post
    Your right, they differ from shock to shock, but you can easily get the right diametre bush made up - 14mm hole is what you are after i believe although somone may correct me.
    Keep me posted as you go but to add confusion, have you thought about chopping down the front shock tower?

    Do you mean front Shock Turrets yeah thats an option to however I have to find the shocks first hehehehe


    When I called Sydney shocks they advised that if the eye isnt correct that the shock will chew up the bushes macking things cluck and wable and wareout quick

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROVERNIT View Post
    are all eye diameters the same ????? is there a standard

    I bet not
    What you need to do is take the front shock out and have a look at what they mean by a pin setup in the D2, then you'll understand.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    What you need to do is take the front shock out and have a look at what they mean by a pin setup in the D2, then you'll understand.

    Baz.

    I hear yeah mate but doing all that work taking of a shock just to see what they mean by pin set up is a bit difficult ill have a better understanding when I remove it however I want to remove it when all the part are around me to swap old for new if you know what I mean

  4. #14
    MickG's Avatar
    MickG is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROVERNIT View Post
    I hear yeah mate but doing all that work taking of a shock just to see what they mean by pin set up is a bit difficult ill have a better understanding when I remove it however I want to remove it when all the part are around me to swap old for new if you know what I mean
    If you have ARB or similar near by then try dropping in and seeing if they have a front shock in stock for a D2.
    '99 Manual TD5 D2.......heap of money spent on it and it has ended

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROVERNIT View Post
    oh that give me the S**ts when told different I should have a look my self which I just did eye to eye all round

    I was told pin + pin front and eye top and Pin bottom rear rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
    This is a Disco 1 setup above.

    Look

    D2 shocks
    eye to eye rear

    Eye to eye WITH A CROSS PIN front

    No point going out and buying shocks if there wrong
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    This is a Disco 1 setup above.

    Look

    D2 shocks
    eye to eye rear

    Eye to eye WITH A CROSS PIN front

    No point going out and buying shocks if there wrong
    Oh Ok I hear yeah

  7. #17
    Ruslan Guest
    I've been told Bilstein shocks have mono body (one pipe), so easy to damage, compare to other popular brands with double skin. It is right?

  8. #18
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    From my experiences the multishell shocks have thin tubes and get damaged a fair bit, but it is largely cosmetic and I've not had any damage go through into the piston area of these shocks. The Bilsteins are made from some pretty thick material that is difficult to dent. Ive done a lot of touring and a lot of fast dirt work and a lot of just plain rough stuff on these shocks also and not yet damaged a Bilstein. I have seen 1 damaged Bilstein which was a snapped mount and that came off a Pajero Io.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    From my experiences the multishell shocks have thin tubes and get damaged a fair bit, but it is largely cosmetic and I've not had any damage go through into the piston area of these shocks. The Bilsteins are made from some pretty thick material that is difficult to dent. Ive done a lot of touring and a lot of fast dirt work and a lot of just plain rough stuff on these shocks also and not yet damaged a Bilstein. I have seen 1 damaged Bilstein which was a snapped mount and that came off a Pajero Io.

    Slunnie have you checked out this web site im not sure I know what Im looking for

    I called sydney shockies and they recomended that I use a 2 inch billy of the shelf and modify it for 4 inchs I asked about patrol shocks etc he advised this is the best method costly though $1320 for 4 shocks

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROVERNIT View Post
    Slunnie have you checked out this web site im not sure I know what Im looking for

    I called sydney shockies and they recomended that I use a 2 inch billy of the shelf and modify it for 4 inchs I asked about patrol shocks etc he advised this is the best method costly though $1320 for 4 shocks
    Which website?

    What they're doing is taking the Disco2 spec shocks and they reshaft them to give a longer open length but it still has the same travel as a normal D2 shock. So the cost is for the shocks, and then for the rebuild of the 4 shocks to be reshafted.

    The Patrol rears is the same mountings (get the correct bushes to suit) but the shock body is longer so you get the correct open length, and you also get more travel. In addition to this you will need to have 1pr revalved ($150pr). If they're charging you $460pr then to do it this way will cost you $1070 + the lower barpins for the front shocks. Thats about $250 cheaper + more travel.

    Also, I wouldn't lower the turrets, the drop travel that you gain is by the exact same amount as the bump travel that you lose. The poms do this for some very strange reason. Its dodgy. If you're truly after long travel suspension you raise the turrets (if you can!) and fit longer shocks again so that the open length is correct and you can get the full bump travel up to the bump stops. Its trick with this 4" setup as the coil binds solid at the front at about the same time the shock runs out of travel, and on the rear to move the mounts up you would also need to do a body lift or lay the shocks over and revalve them to suit. I didn't think it was worth it, though others may think it is (as did Greg Davis in the US who layed his rear shocks forward.)
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

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