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Thread: TIG welding T joints

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Adelaide Hills - SA
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    Alright - it sounds like I may be hooked up backwards then.

    The unit has internal switching, even though it is a single phase 15A jobbie.

    Here is a link to the specs if you can be bothered checking it out, but I think the easiest thing to do next is just to try it in DC+ mode and see how it goes.

    Thanks again for your good advice.

    Link to PDF brochure (200Kb):
    http://www.kemppi.com/inet/kemppi/kit.nsf/DocsPLWeb/MasterTigMLS2300ACDC_br_EN.pdf/$file/MasterTigMLS2300ACDC_br_EN.pdf

    Link to Manual (900Kb):
    http://www.kemppi.com/inet/kemppi/kit.nsf/DocsPLWeb/MastertigMLS_2300_ACDC_0701_om_EN.pdf/$file/MastertigMLS_2300_ACDC_0701_om_EN.pdf

  2. #22
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    Jan 1970
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    Langwarrin
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    Arrow

    G'day again,

    Had a look at the brochure and manual you posted up, VERY NICE! unit. On page 6 item 2.7.1 it states as i suspected that you polarity selection is electronic and that you do not have to change the position of the connectors. Polarity will relate to your earthing so DC(+ve) should give you a (+ve) earth. Always use this setting for any stainless work you do and as before it should give you better arc control (and is the the norm) for mild steel work also. You will also find that the point on your electrode will last longer with this setting. a bit further on in the manual it talks about gas flow rates, they recommend 8-10L/ min, this seems a bit high for tig, i usually set my gas rate to 'bout 5-6L/min and this is fine. remember the higher the flow rate the quicker your bottle runs out. What gas are you using? Don't use pure argon on mild steel it is an expensive waste, an argosheild 50 or 51 as used on a mig will be fine and is cheaper. Pure argon is only required for stainless work.
    Cheers,
    Brian.

  3. #23
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    Jan 1970
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    You sound like a proper expert! How far is Langwarrin from Adelaide .

    I am running 7L/Hr, so I will drop that down a bit.

    I am using Argon because really I want to do Aluminium and Stainless welding but just thought I'd start out with mild steel to practice. Mostly for mild steel I will stick to my MIG unless I need something really really neat.

    What do you do for a job? Seems like you use a TIG a fair bit.

    Cheers
    David

  4. #24
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    Jan 1970
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    Stimpy - I tried swapping to the DC+ setting (instead of DC-) and boy, it ate my electrode in about 1/2 a second! I don't think that is the right setting for mild steel!

    BTW - when I changed from DC- to DC+ the machine suggested a 5mm electrode instead of a 1.6mm electrode.

    Anyway, I have rung Kemppi in Sydney, and they have got someone flying into Adelaide tomorrow who will meet with me and see what I am doing wrong. Good service for sure . Maybe after an hour or so with an expert I will be on the right track.

  5. #25
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    Sep 2007
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    If you have argoshield 50 for your MIG, use that while playing with steel, save you some cash.

  6. #26
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    Jan 1970
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    Langwarrin
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    Hi david,
    I am sorry to hear that those suggestions did not work, after reading you instruction manual (if it was my machine) that is how i would have set it up to run, so i would also be confused as you are?!. Please let me know what you get out the Kempii rep, as i would be very interested. As for your ealier questions, I am a maintenance fitter by trade, but i also sub-contract as a welder. A lot of my tig welding has been done on stainless in the dairy and poultry processing industries. P.S Langwarrin is too far from Adelaide if you don't pack a cut-lunch.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    snap stimpy

    Had a welder a little while back ask me if I can weld

    "I can stick bits of metal together" is my standard answer.

    "That'd be right" says he " every fitter can weld. And every epileptic can fit "


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