Like this?
![]()
Ok so if you want to run it from your car you could mount it somewhere in the back, then connect your vehicle's aux. battery ( if you have one ) via thickish cables, into where the internal batteries would normally go. I am assuming the orginal batteries were 12V ( or input to the inverter at least was 12V ) ?
you'd need fairly thick cables between the battery and the UPS
Pity it doesn;t appear to have standard 3 pin socket outlets - looks like anything 240V AC you want to run from the UPS/Inverter ,you'd need to put a special plug on it, or make an adaptor.
Like this?
![]()
OK,
Following are some pics, thanks for the tip forgot about the computer interface, needs an rs232 lead (ext modem?).
My intended use is charging camera batteries, laptop, playstation (through DVD screen) etc.
Still not sure on if I hard wire or just splice in and leave the batteries in place (thinking is as the batteries are still good it will provide a little additional capacity but more importantly hopefully help provide a stable supply particularly with the fridge cutting in and out etc)
Like to hear others thoughts on this.
Last edited by cookiesa; 8th November 2007 at 12:29 PM. Reason: forgot to add pics
That's a nice looking unit Feral. The power plugs are easy enough to get, Dick SMiths, computer stores etc.
Depends on if you want to make up some adaptors from them to standard 3 pin plugs or change the plug on your equipment (all done by an electrician of course).
Out of curiosity towards the top is a black "plug" for the battery? Is that just a switch or could it be used for the input?
If the battery is stuffed and you don't need/want the extra capacity just remove the battery section and dispose of it, takes up less room. Or you could measure up and fit a sealed 12v battery in there (assuming it is 12v of course) and have a portable unit to put in the tent/camper etc....... hmmm endless options!
Last edited by cookiesa; 8th November 2007 at 12:36 PM.
The power switch on mine does turn the inverter side on/off. But if you get one that doesn't it would be a very good safety measure!
(If your keeping the batteries then you would really want to mount it between the battery and inverter.
Thanks.....
I am printing out the instruction manual now so I have to have a good read to get it all worked out.
I have found the original input and output leads to go with it. They are as supplied with the appropriate plugs on the end. The output lead has a normal 6 point power board attached, so I don't need an electrician to wire it up at all.
Lucky, heh....![]()
The switch will need to be suitable - startup current could easily approach 100A and for 300w will be around 30A. Battery lead should also have a fuse, possibly a slow blow one to handle starting current. (If only used for small loads both the switch and fuse could be lower rating, but this is not a good idea - sooner or later someone will plug in something that draws more current - and replace the fuse with a bigger one if it blows!
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
I was deleting my post re the switch but you guys got in before me...damn you're quick ...thinking about it, most of these UPS would have something in the 12V line anyway wouldn't they ?
Gives you a bit more flexibility in mounting it then too!
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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