D2 Rattle ? Brake Caliper

**LRDV8** · 17th December 2007, 07:13 AM

hey mate don't know if you still have your rattle, but i have a similar problem and it quite possibly is the internals of the cat converter in your exhaust. I thought it was my heat shield too.

just get under your car and hit the side of your cats with your hand and see if you get the same noise .... i did

**Slunnie** · 17th December 2007, 09:14 AM

Originally Posted by abaddonxi

Must be projection on my part. Finally found that ringing noise, guess where.

Cheers
Simon

Radius arms.

**abaddonxi** · 17th December 2007, 04:31 PM

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Radius arms.

Bad enough the length of time it took me to work it out. But the two rounds of mechanics, one of them a rather prominent LR specialist.

Oh well.

Cheers
Simon

**Signal1** · 24th December 2007, 09:01 PM

Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

can you post a picture of the tops of the pads in the caliper....?

they should have some type of anti rattle spring fitted to prevent them from rattling.....

check the other side and see if they are the same or if anything is missing......

Thanks Defenderzook and others who suggested areas to look.

Well I think this may be it. With the help of NJZ, we released the LHR caliper to find the outside brake pad had lost it's retainer spring and associated bits. It's a pity as the pads are only 16K kms old but I'll be replacing them to see if this fixes it.

Next round of questiosn are:

I need to replace both rear brake pads don't I? Left and Right rears?
Do I need to replace the piston seal as well or just put in new pads?
Do I need a specific tool to push the piston back when putting new pads in?

Thanks for the further help.

Peter

**Slunnie** · 24th December 2007, 09:54 PM

I guess technically you don't have to replace all rears, though I would as it keeps them all in synch so to speak, and you wont eventually have just one pad worn out. Actually I do all pads fronts and rear as a set.

Dont need to touch the piston seal.

The trick to doing pads without the caliper compression tool and make shifts is to get a big fat flat screwdriver or lever in through the slot in the caliper and lever the pads back away from the rotor. Be careful though to only have the end of the screwdriver on the back of the pad. Open the pads as far as they'll go and that will make life easy when changing the pads and also the calipers will be pushed in. It also does away with any problems that may cause damage to the pistons or piston seals.

When you do it, keep an eye on the blrake fluid reservoir so that it doesn't overflow.

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