Thread: E.R.P.S. - not convinced

Originally Posted by Grizzly_Adams

C'mon guys, play nice.

I didn't post so I could be insulted, I posted it so others may read about my experiences. If I wanted to be insulted I'd call my ex.

As I said in my post, I'd do anything to increase the longevity of my vehicle. Sometimes that means taking a risk with Snake-oil like products.

Sometimes it pays off and sometimes it doesn't.

In this instance it doesn't appear to have paid off, having said that - apart from being out of pocket 7 years ago - I'm no worse off than if I hadn't done anything.

As there was no danger of damage being done to the vehicle I didn't have a problem at least trying it.

Sorry but you are worse off, if you'd fish oiled 7 years ago, the rust would be minimal, and if you'd reapplied it 3 years, their probably wouldn't be any

Originally Posted by incisor

A defender needs at least 10 pads to work properly. erps and / or counteract used to recommend 6, it isnt enough from what i have heard and seen.

You don't want to know how many pads I have on the Defender but as I said this was installed by the distributors and sworn to be correct at the time.

Originally Posted by incisor

at the end of the day the thing to remember is they dont stop rust, they slow it down...

Yeah I know, so if it has done anything on my Defender there's no way to prove it. I understand it's meant to slow rust / corrosion down but if the inside of my doors are anything to go by then without it my Defender would be in bad condition.

Who knows? I certainly don't have an exact copy of the vehicle to do a controlled test - and with LR's build and quality standards you'll never get 2 alike to do so

As I said, unconvinced and will spend a bit more money on Lanolin from now on but still keep the E.R.P.S. operational.

Originally Posted by rovercare

Sorry but you are worse off, if you'd fish oiled 7 years ago, the rust would be minimal, and if you'd reapplied it 3 years, their probably wouldn't be any

Umm NO because if I didn't put the E.R.P.S. in I wouldn't have been putting the Fish Oil on anyway - that's something I've only learnt since coming on to this forum.

In which case I am not any worse off.

Originally Posted by Grizzly_Adams

Umm NO because if I didn't put the E.R.P.S. in I wouldn't have been putting the Fish Oil on anyway - that's something I've only learnt since coming on to this forum.

In which case I am not any worse off.

Because??

Originally Posted by incisor

dont confuse these things with the galvanic protection schemes, they dont work above the waterline and are banned in many countries..

in theory the -ve voltage suystems work IF and only IF you have an intact sealant over all the metal and you have enough pads on the vehicle to keep the -ve voltage at the right level. A defender needs at least 10 pads to work properly. erps and / or counteract used to recommend 6, it isnt enough from what i have heard and seen.

if you get a stone chip or a scratch you need to coat it with something or the metal will oxidise.

these mobs usually sell a ptfe based sealant that does this and more. it is very similar to the ptfe coating they put on some aircraft.

unsalted peanut oil sprayed around is also a good thing tho can affect some rubbers.

you can usually tell if the system is working because your paint doesnt oxidise when all is well..

if you have one fitted and your paint is oxidising then it isnt working and / or needs looking at because it doent have enough pads..

at the end of the day the thing to remember is they dont stop rust, they slow it down...

I'll back this, they do work, to an extent, given the good rust protection of the rovers already Im not sure ID pay for one but if it happened to be there Id pay attention to helping it along.

theres a list as long as my arm about things that you need to do to help it along its a bit like those exercise machine ads that promise to remove kilos make hot women want to date you and make you happy again. at the end of the ad is always a small print disclaimer that you also need to do regular exercise and eat well for it to work.

but in a nutshell if you have no existing rust, dont have the metal exposed to volumes of air (ie it has at least an oil film on it) minimise the sharp edges (including those made by scratching the surface of the metal) and the pad has good contact and a circut back to the initiating device then it will work as advertised.

IMHO more accurate advertising for it would be " a device that prevents rust caused by permeation of the existing rust protection system"

I have one because I phoned a corrosion specialist I know and they said they thought it might work. I also heard some anecdotal reports of them working. So, I got a couplertec one. So far, I think it's been worth the few $$ it cost as there has been less corrosion of unprotected metal surfaces.

Having said that I think they form a balance part of a protection scheme. I lanotected my doors, and before hitting the beach I spray CRC (a light oil) in all the doors, all through the engine bay, and underneath the car (including in chassis rails).

When I leave the beach I use the underbody wash (leave 95% of the sand in their driveway), and wash it thoroughly when I get home. The week after I underbody and door wash it again. Then, when I think everything is dry I crc it again

I'll tell you in ten years if it works but so far so good.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

being straighter than an engineers slide rule your brother is of no interest to me.

Let me get this straight. If his brother wasn't "straighter than an engineers slide rule", you would be interested.

Originally Posted by p38arover

Let me get this straight. If his brother wasn't "straighter than an engineers slide rule", you would be interested.

sounds like the makings of a good rumour