Thread: Why isn't my fridge working?

Hi All,
I replaced the "cigarette lighter" plug on my Engel to a marine polarised plug that I got, with matching socket, from BIAS boating warehouse. The plug & socket are screwed together. I've never had any problems with this setup.

Best Wishes,

Even with the merit sockets I kept having issues with it breaking off or falling out.

So I went and bought a second Waeco fridge DC lead cut off cig lighter plug and PERMANENTLY wired it into the car with crimp connectors.

I still have the orginal lead with the cig lighter plug if I want to run it off 240V or from another car.

I have a Waeco for the last 5 years. The new model with a digital thermostat.
Started giving me problems and I took it to the Bundaberg authorized repairer.
I had a shock when I saw so many Waeco's for repair. All with faulty regulator.
The owner mentioned to me that the circuit board is very weak and any spic on the line burn the components. She can be erratic or go in full time freeze.
They way that we made the Waeco reliable is by eliminating the original set up and fitting a knob like the old models or the Evakool.
My next fridge when the Waeco is out of commission will be a Evakool.

Been there an done it all till blood ran out of my eye sockets.
If you have a battery isolator check if fridge runs ok with engine running, switch off, if it goes into error, its your aux battery.Problem is, it may take 6 months before the aux is stuffed enough for this to happen immediately, so you will dissapear up your own backside looking for a solution til then.Disconnect your isolator and get the aux checked with one of those fancy battery tester thingos at your local mechanic, make sure you check the auxillary(I didnt the first time and that prolonged the agony).Fitting Anderson Plugs is a good idea as it takes some other possibility outa the equation.My solution was I removed the isolator and fitted a different management system that allows you to use some of the start batterys power as well and has a led indicator to tell you which battery your using, as soon as it switched to auxillary the fridge went to error mode, thats what finally gave the game away.

Another possibilty a helpful soul sent me,
Originally Posted by tracker
common problem with imported fridges. they are setup for yank motorhomes NOT aussie bushbashers.The low voltage cut out is set soas the battery only drains to 11.8 (appox).They can start their motorhomes at this voltage.
BUT here we run seperate battries to power fridges etc and we can get a lot more from a battery due to the fact its not the primary starter batt.
STILL WITH ME???
Ok the fix is simple,(well it was on mine)remove pop rivits that holds compressor in box.
gently pull compressor out and on side you will see a control box with spade connectors on it.
On my weaco (cf110ltr) I changed the low volt cutout resistor(R2)for a 1k and now the fridge runs 3 times longer.I do have deepcycle battery but it has lasted over 3 years doing this.If you follow the link I posted you will find the danfoss specs to show you.

Thanks guys. Very helpful.

I have the fridge back in the car and seems to be running fine at the moment. The 2hr drive home might have made a difference. Its still about 30 degrees outside so it should be working fairly hard.

Some measured voltages are:
Engine off:
12v at aux batt
11.25v at rear socket
11.00v at fridge wire

Then engine on:
13.8v at main batt
13.42v at aux batt
13.40v at rear socket
13.24v at fridge wire

1v drop with engine off, and only 0.18v drop with engine running. Strange.

The wire looks to be about 4mm (not incl the insulation), as is the wire going in and out of the in-line fuse, as is the wire on the Waeco 12v lead. Is it possible to buy the plug at the fridge end of the lead and make my own with bigger wire (that way i could run big wire from the battery right to the fridge and upgrade the socket). Does the above mentioned plug/socket (the 12v one on the fridge) have a name?

Thanks again for your help...

The length of wire in the stock Waeco lead shouldn't make a big difference - its long runs of thin wire that cause the voltage drop. ( as you'd know being in electronics )

So if you run say twin 6mm or bigger from your battery to the back and then go to the Waeco standard lead you'll find things run better.

However, you may be able to get a Waeco plug and wire in thicker cable right to the fridge if you want to - look up Waeco's website and give one of their service agents a call.

My experience its certainly worth putting a bit of time into the wiring and eliminating all points of possible issues.

Having been a Weaco repair centre for over 5 years the biggest problem I got with waeco is there lead !...... As everyone has said, replace it with a H/Duty Marine, Merit style or 32v plug or better still Hard wire the lead and leave it perminatly in the back of your car, pop down to your waeco agent and buy another lead for about $27 and keep that for use with your 240v Adaptor and in case you need to use your fridge in another vehicle !
I have had 3 waeco's 1 x CF80 run on display for the last 5 years and still going, CF50 permanylt going with help from my solar panel in the Disco and a FF70 (best of the Lot) old style one Knob on /off ! They all have been bullet proof, the 80lt is quite thirsy for current maintaing the freezer but in all not bad, Good trick with the 80 is if your just doing a Day trip turn the fridge down till the freezer is running at fridge temprature and put your drinks etc in there ! use's much less current !

Number one RULE !..............From new Throw away Cig Plug ! it may not be a problem straight away but it will be soon !

Cheers

Originally Posted by crump

Another possibilty a helpful soul sent me,
Originally Posted by tracker
common problem with imported fridges. they are setup for yank motorhomes NOT aussie bushbashers.The low voltage cut out is set soas the battery only drains to 11.8 (appox).They can start their motorhomes at this voltage.
BUT here we run seperate battries to power fridges etc and we can get a lot more from a battery due to the fact its not the primary starter batt.
STILL WITH ME???
Ok the fix is simple,(well it was on mine)remove pop rivits that holds compressor in box.
gently pull compressor out and on side you will see a control box with spade connectors on it.
On my weaco (cf110ltr) I changed the low volt cutout resistor(R2)for a 1k and now the fridge runs 3 times longer.I do have deepcycle battery but it has lasted over 3 years doing this.If you follow the link I posted you will find the danfoss specs to show you.

My Waeco (CF-50 with digital temp display) has a 3-way cut off selector:
LOW = 10.4v
MED = 11.4v
HIGH = 12v

Mine's set to low since it's the aux battery. I hope that's not low enough to stuff the battery