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Thread: 300 tdi blow by... theories

  1. #1
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    300 tdi blow by... theories

    so i ducked round to my local rover mech to get a serp belt to shut up the squeek squeeek after all the rain we had... changing it over in his driveway and he notices a bit too much oil on top of the rocker cover (I havent opened bonnet since last oil change bout 4000km ago)... he says, bit too much blow by eh? Anyway new belt on and turn it over and sure enough blow by is as you would say excessive... cap bouncing away when loosely in place...

    Sooooo shoot me some of your theories, ask some questions...

    Ive started pulling it to sort and will let you know...

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  2. #2
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    blow by is almost always ring or piston related.

    if your lucky its just a couple of dodgy rings
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    a leak down test would reveal (mostly) all.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    so i ducked round to my local rover mech to get a serp belt to shut up the squeek squeeek after all the rain we had... changing it over in his driveway and he notices a bit too much oil on top of the rocker cover (I havent opened bonnet since last oil change bout 4000km ago)... he says, bit too much blow by eh? Anyway new belt on and turn it over and sure enough blow by is as you would say excessive... cap bouncing away when loosely in place...

    Sooooo shoot me some of your theories, ask some questions...

    Ive started pulling it to sort and will let you know...

    Steve
    Check your Crankcase Ventilation, I dont know how they work on a 300TDi but I would check any hoses, breathers or connections to make sure their not coked up or blocked, make sure your oil level is correct and not overfilled, before you pull your engine down, Regards Frank.

  5. #5
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    Question Symptoms

    Steve

    How many K, Do you have any oil consumption?

    Crankcase Ventilation is via a tube into the suction side of the Turbo. I remember JC telling me to mod the baffle in mine because eventually the oil stream scrubbed off the engine will have a detrimental effect on the compression turbine.

    I'll be interested in the answers you recieve as I've starting to see an issue with mine which I'll elaborate on in due course.

  6. #6
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    Sticking rings, they could be stuck in the ring grooves and not expanding fully onto the cyl. walls-what oil do you use and how often changed? Hopefully no broken ones

  7. #7
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    -185k or there abouts - ex forestry then farmers truck so wouldve been flogged
    - no significant oil use
    -10k changes using Castrol Diesel 15w40
    -no blockages i could determine to crank case ventilation
    -"leak down test" is that a compression test then sit and wait for specified leak down time???

    steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  8. #8
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    a leak down test is when you apply compressed air to a cylinder via the glowplug/injector hole in the head (in the case of diesels in a petrol use the spark plug hole) and listen to various locations (inlet tract, exhaust, radiator and the crank case) for air bypassing the seals of the engines combustion chamber.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    a leak down test is when you apply compressed air to a cylinder via the glowplug/injector hole in the head (in the case of diesels in a petrol use the spark plug hole) and listen to various locations (inlet tract, exhaust, radiator and the crank case) for air bypassing the seals of the engines combustion chamber.
    you apply 100psi of compressed air to the cylinder.
    The losses are expressed as a %, eg, if the gauge reads 95 psi, that's 5% leakage (which was always our maximum allowed in race engines, a road engine should be Ok up to around 10%)

    As Dave says, you are also able to see if the leakages are via the rings or valves, by just listening to where the air is going.
    Obviously, if the gauge reads 60psi and you can hear the air whistling back through the crankcase, the rings aren't seating on that cylinder.

  10. #10
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    thanks for the info guys... getting onto it
    im not too stressed about things - when we bought the fender we knew it had a reasonable dodgy history but for $11k was too good to pass up. For just such an eventuality as this we kept the old disco 300tdi which had been rebuilt after an overheat about 20,000km ago... I could just bolt that donk in - but I really want to understand more so will try to diagnose the current prob - then use head or bottom end or components of other engine... would be nice not to change blocks due to engine number changes..... I have a real allergic reaction to going to the transport department

    Biggest bummer is that the boat which is getting a re-glass has been put on the back burner

    thanks for help and ideas, will keep you informed
    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

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