Was it making any noises? I ask because I've just found the exact same problem in a diff I just pulled apart so I could fit my Maxidrive. Weird thing is that all the crownwheel bolts were loose and there was no noise.
Was it making any noises? I ask because I've just found the exact same problem in a diff I just pulled apart so I could fit my Maxidrive. Weird thing is that all the crownwheel bolts were loose and there was no noise.
You know the original Rover diffs had holes through the bolts the wire them in place because this is a common failing in diffs because of the torque.
It is not always poor workmanship and in fact I have a friend in Sydney who is having those bolts drilled on the P38a diffs in his xtreme because they have a habit of working loose even with locktite,
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Had a 4.7 rover diff with all the crown wheel bolts sheared of once. It kept driving on the stubs, didn't notice till it drove one of the broken bits into the rear of the housing. Mind you it was only used in low range and the rest of the drive train wasn't what you would call quiet.
So it is amazing what they will keep working with.
84' 120" ute - 3.9 isuzu.
Yes some earlier rover diffs had wires to hold the bolts (series only), some had lock tab (85-86 classics) to hold the bolts....some had neither (early classic) and did come loose, however most good landy mechanic's know of these problems and rectify them, eg by using lock tabs ect.
Dont get me wrong, locktite is a damn good product and also a clean environment is a must with any work, But when my Classic (93) did its diff center, due to housing been bent, I did put the tabs on just to make sure as I wouldn't trust just locktite. But thats me, your right if you use the right locktite and correctly, they shouldn't work themselves loose.
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