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Thread: Disco1 brakes

  1. #1
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    Disco1 brakes

    My Ute failed it's brake test with the engineer

    I have just replaced all 4 rotors and added some after market brake pads that i have been told are the best you can get but they leave a lot of brake dust (i don't care) i feels a little better and i can now lock the front wheels...... for those who don't know to pass a brake test you have to pull more them .8 of a G from 60Kmh 3 or 4 times in a row using less thn 40 KG brake pedal pressure.

    I have also been told by the local brake place that the Disco never had good brake to start off with but i don't agree with that.

    Before you all harp on about it being lighter in the rear and thus not allowing the front to work harder we covered that by filling the rear of the ute with 125Kg of water and a full tank of juice (140L) all my tools and my spare so i am probably not to far from std and the rears were not locking. It just seems that the fronts are not doing the job. So that why i replace all the rotors and put in new pads.

    pls add yr comments as i am not sure what to do if it fails again

  2. #2
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    geez, that sounds tough.

    I just dug out my last NSW rego brake test (23/01, have to do one every year) and the 'fender hit a maximum .69g @ 35km/h with 495N pedal force, and that's considered a normal pass.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    geez, that sounds tough.

    I just dug out my last NSW rego brake test (23/01, have to do one every year) and the 'fender hit a maximum .69g @ 35km/h with 495N pedal force, and that's considered a normal pass.
    thanks mate!!

    mine passed RWC brake test just not engineer test will have to argue the point with him! Anyone with NSW brake test info? std or modified?

  4. #4
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    Hmm. I had a lot of dramas getting my old Capri to pass it's test - that was following a V8 conversion and four wheel disc set up - it wasn't getting enough pressure to the front calipers either. Cured it with a brake bias (variable proportioning valve). In your case though you've retained OEM gear?? Did you have a chance to bed the brakes (pads) in? Is there too much weight in the rear now - can you stick it on a weighbridge to find the axle weight distribution? and compare that to a unmodded vehicle...

    Is the testing equipment accurate? The tester might object to someone asking that.

    The standard you mentioned (0.8g) seems fair but my dunger Disco with stock unvented rotors pulls up really well, so I'd disagree with the comments from the brake shop - if they're bad they shouldn't be on the road to start with.

    Good luck with it mate, I hope you get the answers you need.

  5. #5
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    havnt had a chance to take to it to a weigh bridge yet but i am very interested to find out what it weighs?

  6. #6
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    What about changing to bigger bore fender front calipers? 25% better braking they say

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by disco_ute View Post
    My Ute failed it's brake test with the engineer

    I have just replaced all 4 rotors and added some after market brake pads that i have been told are the best you can get but they leave a lot of brake dust (i don't care) i feels a little better and i can now lock the front wheels...... for those who don't know to pass a brake test you have to pull more them .8 of a G from 60Kmh 3 or 4 times in a row using less thn 40 KG brake pedal pressure.

    I have also been told by the local brake place that the Disco never had good brake to start off with but i don't agree with that.

    Before you all harp on about it being lighter in the rear and thus not allowing the front to work harder we covered that by filling the rear of the ute with 125Kg of water and a full tank of juice (140L) all my tools and my spare so i am probably not to far from std and the rears were not locking. It just seems that the fronts are not doing the job. So that why i replace all the rotors and put in new pads.

    pls add yr comments as i am not sure what to do if it fails again
    Try putting in some fresh brake fluid, pump out the old stuff refill with new and bleed correctly. I'm not sure if your front Calipers work the same as my 93 Disco calipers, my front calipers have 3 bleed nipples, one near the bottom, one at the top, and one on the outside, you need to remove the wheels to bleed the outside one.
    Bleed back passenger 1st, back driver 2nd (back calipers only have 1 bleed nipple), front passenger 2 inside nipples together, have engine running to provide extra pressure from booster, after you get clear fluid from the 2 inside nipples bleed the outside nipple, repeat other side, use only new fluid from sealed bottles, not old fluid you've had sitting around.
    Did mine the other day, completely different brakes, I can actually get the tyres to screech on dirt roads, what a difference, Regards Frank.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    What about changing to bigger bore fender front calipers? 25% better braking they say
    are the defender calipers bigger then rrc/ disco ones?



    and tank i have changed all the fluids when i did the rotors and pads

  9. #9
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    Yes, and their vented too.

  10. #10
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    Actually you may want to fit a brake master from a defender, or a disco with ABS, which have 3 ports which for some reason work better. Run it the same as a defender, 1 port to the rears and 1 to each front wheel, giving 33/66 brake bias.

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