Thread: Security System Not Working

I'm not going to be much help with your problem as it's not one I've come across (unless it's the notorious spider problem) but the alarm ECU is Z163 (top right picture):
Alarm.pdf

There are heaps of options for mucking around with Landrover security systems. The factory remotes are unreliable, and only work close to the box. To check if it's just the remote system, try using the key to lock/unlock. If the central locking system still works, and the system still alarms (level 1 key, without the ultrasound perimetric sensors), you can put in an aftermarket system to sit beside your current landrover system.

This just locks and unlocks the central locking system by sending 12V to earth on two different wires. You can also use the "key in" wire to arm/disarm the alarm system, though I've never really bothered with it. It is no real modification to put an aftermarket central locking unit in (just need to tap into the wires), and you can pick up cheap ones from (e.g.) Strathfield sells a cheap and cheerful central locking kit for $50 bucks. Just throw the servos away, and use the remote box. It won't have rolling codes or anything, but honestly, who is going to clone your remote to steal a 10 year old vehicle. As a bonus, it will work from across the parking lot, instead of having to be right next to the car.

Edit: The box (and best place to tap the central locking wires) is above the passenger side footwell.

Damien

Thanks Scott and Damien. The alarm system is working from the door lock, so it looks like an after market item is coming!

Damien, which wires go to earth - if you can identify them, it will make my life a whole lot easier!

With thanks,

Charlie

On my '96 Tdi, one wire (orange/pink) is used for lock/unlock. If it goes to earth, it locks, if the link to earth is broken, it unlocks.

Blue/green is used to indicate a "key in" condition (i.e., goes to earth when key is in). To arm the system, sequence is first key in, then lock. To disarm, first key in then unlock.

I believe it is the same for a '97 (based on my electrical diagram).

Many aftermarket remotes have one wire that goes to earth for lock, and one wire for unlock. What you will need to do then is put in a relay for the unlock that breaks the earth on the orange/pink wire (normally on, going to off when energized). You can use the lock earth as normal, though you may want to isolate the aftermarket remote using a plain diode. The relay plus the diode is something like $2 from Dick Smith. They have a little 9V relay that works well. I didn't bother with the key in wire.

Sounds a bit complicated, but only takes 15 minutes to set up.

Cheers,
Damien