Thread: wheel carrier damage

Originally Posted by isuzurover

James - I have only seen a couple of carriers that tie into the door, but on both I was somewhat worried about the amount of movement in the pivots. They would really move around on corrugations.

Blast, that makes sense too. On big trips up until now I put one spare on the bonnet and another in the cargo area and all other times I just have the spare in the cargo area. I don't like the bonnet mount for round town. Now, the spare in the rear cargo area is starting to annoy me, but getting over it, costs no money and keeps everything protected (except me in a roll-over).

Originally Posted by kowari

Hi Dave110,

how long had the carrier been on the back of the landy ? ( or about how many Ks had it done hanging on the back)

you say you will use a bit of plate, I take it that you intend to bolt/weld it to the outside face of the crossmember as you cant get access to bolts etc on the inside ?

the metal bits boted to the back of the bracket in the third photo are from the inside of the crossmember ? if so did they come with the carrier?

I have the option of a second hand one at the moment but 1. it doesnt have a locking plate ($140 from Kaymar) 2. it doesnt have those bits of metal on the back of the bracket either. though there are a couple of bits that take the bolts from the grab handle on the back of the Landy.

sorry been off line for a couple of days
the carrier has been on the landy for about 250,000 km

my intentions are to weld up the cracks and then weld a bit of 4 mm plate onto the crossmember as this will fit betweem the carrier and the crossmember and still use the bracing and the bolt that locates the bottom of the carrier

drill out the bolt holes to 16 mm and get some 16 mm mild steel bored out to make crush tubes fit 10 mm ht bolts and weld these onto the 4mm plate using another piece of 4mm plate on the back of the crossmember bolt the whole thing together so that the weight is distributed through the whole crossmember and not just one thickness of 2 mm that was the fault in the first place

those brackets in the 3rd photo are the fixing brackets that have 10 mm bolts welded to them the wire bits are just so that you can get them inside the crossmember easier but the new fixing method will be on the outside of the crossmember

when I do the modification I post it as a tutorial/project