Thread: Defender Headlight Problem

Taking the switch out and running a multimeter over it is a lot easier than trying to find a short.

Mine was partially melted, I unmelted the contact so it could do its job again, then slathered solder like peanut butter to get the juices flowing.

Cheers
Simon

Originally Posted by abaddonxi

Dunno if headlight wiring upgrade will fix the problem, but here's the link -

Dave's Interesting Things - Defender Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kit


My last round of headlight dramas, third in the last couple of years, was a headlight switch problem, fixed by a lot of soldering and butchery to the headlight switch, and upgrading headlight wiring to reduce load on the switch.

Cheers
Simon

I recently bought one of these kits. Thought it a better proposition than thinking out an improved wiring setup and chasing parts myself. Haven't checked, but probably the price of the kit would be cheaper than the total retail price of components in it bought individually

However have so far only got as far as using the odd component out of it for other purposes. Regarding my Defender headlights, the dipswitch, which is also the indicator switch (which still works) and apparently very expensive went dead. Power still went through headlight switch though. Note for headlights it then goes down to one of the yellow relays near the fuse panel, then back to the dip switch. This relay is actuated by the ignition switch, so that when motor is turned off, headlights go out.

This may be intended as an idiot proofing device to make it less likely for the battery to be flattened from the headlights being left on when the motor is not running. I regard it as overall a nuisance. So connected a heavy two way toggle switch for the headlights direct to the wire that runs to the headlight switch, which now only feeds the parkers. And for those who haven't noticed also the instrument panel lights -VIA THE FUSE THAT ALSO FEEDS THE RIGHT PARKER!

The plastic covers around the steering column were amongst what I regard as unnecessary things that cause trouble - including dust collectors on a work vehicle and permanently removed long ago. Makes it much easier to work out and get at wiring. Installed two way toggle switch which directly switches on either high or low beam in place on RHS opposite from light switch. For convenience, esp more convenient to dip lights with left hand, probably best to swap them around.

I am sure the lights are now brighter than they were with the standard setup. Power now only goes through the new low-off-high beam switch before the headlight fuses. Before it went through light switch, to and from ignition controlled relay via over two feet of wire, then through the obviously inadequate capacity dip (and indicator) switch.

If there is a problem with just one headlight going dim, would suggest looking at possibly inadequate earthing from it rather than components probably supplied by successors to Joseph Lucas, reputedly the "Prince of Darkness".