Thread: ''A'' frame ball joint

I think LRA do them but there website is down.Cheers Brett
http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/23.html

Ph.03 94644094

This was my experience with an adjustable one from Four Wheel Drives.
This is the "before" photo. The "after" photo is no longer available.
It is still working as intended. I have adjusted it twice since then.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...tml#post496748

Hi,

LRA still have them. Bought one there about 10 days ago.

DL

So gents ?

Is there an easy way to tell if the joint is RS. I've got a nice solid "clunk" emanating from the rear end, usually when I take off and then from 1 to 2, after which it's not so noticeable. I read here about attacking it with a tyre lever or similar, but haven't quite figured out actually how to attack it.

Cheers

Ive found the simplest check is to lock up the handbrake then get under the vehicle put your hand on the aframe joint and have someone else rock the vehicle back and forth as hard as they can.

you'll feel it jump a little as it takes up slackif its stuffed. I dont think it will reveal if your only jsut getting the problem as you cant put enough torque onto it.

The ultimate version IMO was the Maxi one, adjustable, greasable and rebuildable.
There might still be an odd one in a parts place somewhere.

Bearmach do an adjustable version. I've seen it listed in the catalogue from my favourite wholesaler who cannot be mentioned.

LRA's are adjustable and greaseable. Don't know if they are Maxi or not. About $170.

Advantage of adjustables is the way you get them out.

I pull out the bracket that holds the joint and the Boge as 1 unit as I don't have anything to undo the Boge ball joint nuts. (I need the Boge to keep the HID's somewhat legal)

Unscrew the adjustable top and pull out the ball and nylon cups then make two cuts @ 180 using long Bosch jigsaw blades for metal through ball joint outer to bracket ID.

Ball joint outer falls out, rather than needing persuasion from 20t press.