Thread: 300Tdi blowing white/blue smoke

Check condition of the woodruff key on the front of the crankshaft where the front crank gear runs.
They have a habit of hammering the the key if the harmonic balancer has come loose and will therefore change the timing you will need to remove the harmonic balancer and front timingcase cover to inspect the key
could be an expensive fix if this is the case.
it is common if the harmonic balancer hasn't been tightened correctly after a timing belt change.

Originally Posted by St3pho_62

Mine has about 58,000k on it ATM and its using about a litre in every 5000k. I suspect that the bore is glazed and I also suspect that the service history that came wth the vehicle was dodgy and built retrospectively.

JC and I were disgussing this the other day and he has suggested driving to work a few times with the camper on to put the engine under some sustained load.

<can of worms>

Maybe time to try out some CEM FTC Decarbonizer? I'm thinking of giving it a go because the huge list of appraisals is annoying me

Originally Posted by St3pho_62

<snip>
Mine has about 58,000k on it ATM and its using about a litre in every 5000k. I suspect that the bore is glazed and I also suspect that the service history that came wth the vehicle was dodgy and built retrospectively.

JC and I were disgussing this the other day and he has suggested driving to work a few times with the camper on to put the engine under some sustained load.

the valve stem seals can also pop up and let excess oil down the guides. Check them next time you do a rocker adjustment.

I'm also about to change the grade of engine oil I'm using as the Pezzoil MA longlife was fine in Tassie but with the higher ambient temps in this neck of the woods it probably a bit light.

See how you get on n the next 90 days. Good luck

what are it's specs ?
Also note that most all API CI-4 and 4+ oils won't glaze the bore with use, particularly the semi and full synthetics. They are formulated to minimise or eliminate it.
The same with the latest ACEA Euro spec diesel oils.

There is also a huge difference in various oils volatility (referred to in oil specs as their NOACK volatility) The higher the NOACK number (and it's rated as a %) the more quickly that oil will 'disappear' in use.
The best synthetic oils (but not all) have a NOACK around the 6-7% mark, some lower spec oils can be around the 15-20% mark. IIRC, to have a CI-4 spec, they have to be under either 12% or 15%.

G'day Ric

The pennzoil MA is 15w 40.

Products - Pennzoil Long-Life CI4

I've been seriously thinking about guides n seals but not got to that point yet.

The local Landy expert (Tim Vinson from Landrovers Only) says that a lot of the TDi 300 he services run the Penrite HPR Diesel and feels that it may slow the consumption.

http://www.penrite.com.au/files/TY49...R%20DIESEL.pdf

Providing it doesn't get any worse I'm not fussed but might do the head up eventually. I need to pull my finger out n fit Isuzurovers Provent, that might help too.

I'm not sure which way to jump yet. As you can probably understand with an engine with 57,500k on it using oil, and a Gearbox (R380) with more crunch than your average breakfast cerial I'm not to enarmoured with LandRover at the moment.

Originally Posted by B92 8NW

<can of worms>

Maybe time to try out some CEM FTC Decarbonizer? I'm thinking of giving it a go because the huge list of appraisals is annoying me

Tell me about this and what it does? I use ChemTech fuel treatment is this what your talking about?

Hi Stevo, Penn LL is good stuff. It's brewed locally by Shell (Shell owns Pennzoil) and is a little bit different to the Rimula's.

I've just replaced all my valve stem seals and four were floating, ie. not pushed onto the guide posts. I knew three were, but I reckon with four loose, that's where my 600ml/10,000km of oil is going. They've been like that since I bought it at 76,000km, and I've finally gotten around to swapping them out (I didn't want to make life too hard for the Provent. )
Surprisingly the backs of the valves aren't too bad, and the guides seemed OK (bit hard to tell with the head still in situ, but barely any discernible play in the stems. I pulled the manifolds off last night)
I'd love to pull the head off and give it a tickle up, but I'd get carried away and this will have to do for a while.

Originally Posted by rick130

Hi Stevo, Penn LL is good stuff. It's brewed locally by Shell (Shell owns Pennzoil) and is a little bit different to the Rimula's.

I've just replaced all my valve stem seals and four were floating, ie. not pushed onto the guide posts. I knew three were, but I reckon with four loose, that's where my 600ml/10,000km of oil is going. They've been like that since I bought it at 76,000km, and I've finally gotten around to swapping them out (I didn't want to make life too hard for the Provent. )
Surprisingly the backs of the valves aren't too bad, and the guides seemed OK (bit hard to tell with the head still in situ, but barely any discernible play in the stems. I pulled the manifolds off last night)
I'd love to pull the head off and give it a tickle up, but I'd get carried away and this will have to do for a while.

Did you change them in-situ or pull the head off?

Originally Posted by St3pho_62

Tell me about this and what it does? I use ChemTech fuel treatment is this what your talking about?

Cost Effective Maintenance - FTC Decarboniser

Originally Posted by http://www.costeffective.com.au/

FTC Decarbonizer is ideal for safely burning off cylinder glaze and carbon from combustion and exhaust spaces. Engines using FTC become totally free of hard carbon build up.

FTC can correct smoke, power loss, heavy fuel consumption, blowby, oil dripping, hard starting; caused by glaze and/or carbon build up.

Cost Effective Maintenance - Solutions to Smoke and Oil Consumption Problems - " It removes carbon from turbochargers, allowing full turbo speed and air delivery."


I'm not too sure how a product that is introduced into the fuel system can remove carbon build up from a turbocharger housing. Does something in the solution survive combustion and dissolve carbon in the t/charger ?

Either way I'm sick of "appraisals" and testimonials, so I'm going to see for myself.