Thread: Broken shock

Originally Posted by rick130

Good point. Everyone missed that !

No, they didn't, they were just waiting on Tombie's reply

Originally Posted by Bush65

Welding and the pressure in Bilstein would be an issue if you were contemplating welding to the body of the shockie (the part that is pressurised).

I don't know what Land Rover you are talking about, but on mine, the eye is welded to the rod, so the pressure is a red herring.

Hmmm. On my ones the mount on the rod spins on and off. I had the rose joints changed for rubber bushes. The cut & replace was on the body, again to replace the rose joint with a rubber bush. The are the 6100's, but obviously now they're not all like that.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Hmmm. On my ones the mount on the rod spins on and off. <snip>.

and so do my threaded body ones in the shed, but they aren't roadie ones, either.

Originally Posted by amtravic1

I have broken both Koni and Bilstein on my previous Rangie. The reason I believe was the LRA mod to the top mount where they use a large nut to keep the shock in place. I believe that does ut, but on mnot allow enough flex. never broke another when I went back to the standard washer and split pin.

Ian

This is a good point as I have the LRA modded mounts

Originally Posted by Bush65

Welding and the pressure in Bilstein would be an issue if you were contemplating welding to the body of the shockie (the part that is pressurised).

I don't know what Land Rover you are talking aboine, the eye is welded to the rod, so the pressure is a red herring.

The welding used to connect to eye to the rod on my Bilstiens is not particularly good, considering the angle of rangie and disco top rear mounts, that cause bending to occur in the shockie rod.

Mine only have 2 short fillet welds (on front and rear of the eye). Because of the bending (caused by the angle of the top mount), the highest stress in the weld occurs at the worst possible place for cracks to develop.

Previous posts have mentioned several other issues that contribute to increasing the bending in the rod. These all need to addressed to avoid failure.

At a minimum, allow as much flex as possible from the rubber mounts at both the top and bottom mounts - do not over tighten on the rubber bushes and allow room for the rubber to deform (rubber is the most incompressible material known to man).

2 door Rangie, and yes the eye is on the rod, so the pressure is'nt at issue.


With all the new and welcome info I had a good look at it tonight. looks like the rubber bushes where under too much compression resulting in a bind and break situation.
I have always liked the modded mounts because with old split pin system the shock bushes would require frequent replacement. (rattling) I always attributed this to the looseness of it all.
So I will mig the eye back on and either replace the mounts with the older type or leave more room for movement by backing the nut off.
Thanks for all the input, much appreciated.
Cheers
Wayne

Hi I'm new here and wondered if you could help me ?
I have two new shocks to put on the front of my 110 Defender and want to get the bushes right!

The two ringed diagrams that relate to the shock I have are these the right fitting instructions for a Defender 110

P6160572.jpg (43.5 K

Originally Posted by tedsmart

Hi I'm new here and wondered if you could help me ?
I have two new shocks to put on the front of my 110 Defender and want to get the bushes right!

The two ringed diagrams that relate to the shock I have are these the right fitting instructions for a Defender 110

P6160572.jpg (43.5 K

They are correct for classic rangie and Disco I so probably correct for 110.