Thread: Replacing a valley seal?

71 dollars! are they that dear now. If your into basic mechanics and follow the right sequence for removing and cleaning all the parts, chamber and inlet manifold then its worth every cent, but does take a bit of time i.e. half a day on weekend mucking around that is. From memory you may be able to cheat and lift the entire inlet assembly off to expose the valley cover and clean and replace this area then your saving quite a bit of time here. Last time I did mine I ended up pulling all the parts down hence the half day. Valey cover (the inlet gasket that is) is as easy as.

Have a look at the manual and armed with set of spanners, its not difficult so long as you avoid dropping any crap into the exposed inlets! And secondly your dealing with alloy, so non-mechanics have a habit of forgeting setting the torque to bed the manifold correctly and stripping the threads. If your careful you might buy a cheaper brand torque wrench given the motor is fairly forgiving anyway although I might get bashed for saying this by my on gear in the shed.

My bet is you will be a clear 800 to 900 in front

Geoff

Its not a big job only you need to decide you are competent and confident in doing the job.
Don't buy cheap valley gaskets there is a coated one that I have been told never leaks (not sure about that). Get yourself some 3 bond or really good quality silicone only use this on the water galleries and rubber ends keep the coated gasket dry (no sealant on the inlets).
Some new hoses /coolant take the bonnet off and dont overtighten the bolts on the inlet manifold.
Should be relatively simple

Why do you need a VRS kit? You aren't removing the heads or the valves.

You need 2 rocker cover gaskets (the new rubber ones), 2 end seals, and the valley cover gasket (steel or composite).

What is the "top cover"?

Originally Posted by mousie

71 dollars! are they that dear now. If your into basic mechanics and follow the right sequence for removing and cleaning all the parts, chamber and inlet manifold then its worth every cent, but does take a bit of time i.e. half a day on weekend mucking around that is. From memory you may be able to cheat and lift the entire inlet assembly off to expose the valley cover and clean and replace this area then your saving quite a bit of time here. Last time I did mine I ended up pulling all the parts down hence the half day. Valey cover (the inlet gasket that is) is as easy as.

Have a look at the manual and armed with set of spanners, its not difficult so long as you avoid dropping any crap into the exposed inlets! And secondly your dealing with alloy, so non-mechanics have a habit of forgeting setting the torque to bed the manifold correctly and stripping the threads. If your careful you might buy a cheaper brand torque wrench given the motor is fairly forgiving anyway although I might get bashed for saying this by my on gear in the shed.

My bet is you will be a clear 800 to 900 in front

Geoff

That's sound

Originally Posted by djam1

Its not a big job only you need to decide you are competent and confident in doing the job.
Don't buy cheap valley gaskets there is a coated one that I have been told never leaks (not sure about that). Get yourself some 3 bond or really good quality silicone only use this on the water galleries and rubber ends keep the coated gasket dry (no sealant on the inlets).
Some new hoses /coolant take the bonnet off and dont overtighten the bolts on the inlet manifold.
Should be relatively simple

The composite covered valley cover, is the goods but last I seen was a few years ago and ..............$100 plus, I also 3 bond the inlet tract, 3 bond is awesome

Graeme Cooper do not use composite valley covers as they have found several with the composite sitting in the valley.
I use Hylomar blue spray, with a double dose on the water channels.
Seeing the car is a Stage1, I assume it will be a carby car. I this case you CAN take the carbys and manifold off in one unit, but AFAIR you have to bend a spanner to get to the bolts under the carbys.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

this case you CAN take the carbys and manifold off in one unit, but AFAIR you have to bend a spanner to get to the bolts under the carbys.

Yes. I have made one up (I copied the 0ne my local LR guys use). I can take a pic. The bend isn't done at 90 deg to the long axis of the spanner, it's more like 45 x 45 degs. I'd need to go and find it.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Graeme Cooper do not use composite valley covers as they have found several with the composite sitting in the valley.

Regards Philip A

Sounds quite likely, I seldom repair anything rover V8, usually pulling them out and putting something with go in, but being that the composite is merely hanging throughout the centre of the tin plate, not sandwiched like it should, and hot oil coated, I could see why