Thread: A mate's TD5 woes

Has he taken it to a Rover place? (dealer or other)
Sounds like oil in the harness to me.
Check out the tech section or do a search on "oil in the harness" injector harness, etc
Good Luck

G'day mate

Has he checked the fuel pump, mate of mine had similar problems, sluggish for a while until eventually pump packed it in due to letting tank get below quarter. Pump needs to have fuel around it so it doesn't overheat.

Zelk

Alto who handles these in Sydney, has replaced the loom from the motor to the computer but no other loom sections.

Fuel pump has not been checked although I would have thought that Alto would have pressure tested it.

He does keep the tank normally above 1/4, the problem with pumps is that they can be fine one minute and then crap the next. He has mentioned too that this problem can stop for quite a while before it returns.

Is there a generic pump that we can try in the carriage to test?

Cheers, Pete'

hi, and thanks for starting this thread frontier, hopefully someone here has had this problem and also it may help someone in the future.
i be the owner of THE discovery with the problem. ill try give a detailed account of whats happened.

i bought the car second hand at 80 odd thousand ks. i got an extended dealer warranty because id heard of a few issues with these cars.

after driving it for 5 thousand kilometres i noticed the engine to miss a beat or two. seems like no bang in the cylinder to me.
so it would disengage from the drive train and then grab again so that your car would drop then surge back and forth. sometimes just once and sometimes a couple of jumps and sometimes you would get a whole flurry of them.
then it got worse.
see i took this for a drive once with a trailer, on a long trip unloaded initially. i refueled at a metro. petro deiesel. the car began jumping around a fair amount about 100 ks into the drive. i kept driving to meet a deadline. and sometimes it would clear for a hundred ks or so only to come back more feircley. it got much worse about 400 ks into my drive.
once i picked up the trailer load and came home it got even worse.
to the point it was like driving a milkshake sometimes.
it was just so erratic you could not predict when it would occur or for how long.

i got home, unhitched the trailer left work, took a corner and hit the blinker and the car slowed down to an idle.
it had no acceleration but for standard idle speed in first gear. flat to the floor would give less than a thousand rpm..
i found if i turned the key off then back on i would have my pedal back again.

it took em a while to find the problem (one problem) but landrover service of artarmon found i had a leaking wiring loom. oil from the head travelling up and shorting out the wires. they wanted to charge me 1200 for that fix job but i made mention of the warranty and all was cool. they covered parts and labour.

a few thousand ks later i began to get the same misfiring off my cylinder(s). only maybe once or twice per drive. they advised me that the loom was indeed changed, it had a newish manufacture stamp on it and that they have never had to replace a loom twice. i checked it for oil aruond the loom near the battery compartment computer and all was ok. they said that the oil dosent go into the computer so that was fine.

i drove it to them and was happy to find it misfire repeatedly in a flurry going up a big highway hill. it sucks taking your car two hours away for service and having to go back another day to pick it up...to find that they havent fixed the problem really and i was glad it was showing some evidence recently.

they could find nothing wrong in way of error codes. the short test drive yeilded no misfires. i convincd them i was not crazy and they gave it to a worker to drive over the weekend. he told them it never stopped. which wasnt the problem so often and the first time i ever felt the misfires i wondered if it was my foot on the pedal...
i assumed he got a good run with no misifres.

a test for biodiesel or bad fuel had yeilded no poor result.

they filled it up with new fuel and i never had the problem again for atleast 5 tanks worth of juice when i changed to shell from caltex.
then it stayed around a while, misfiring ireggularly.
a week or so later it misifred three times on the way to work. and twice as i took corners with the blinkers on it went to limp idle mode again.
by now it was getting dangerous as my car could go back to idling in front of other cars on roundabouts and things.

the mechanic had it go back to idle speed on him and get stuck there when putting it up on ramps. he mentioned that it is a likley a electrical problem not a fuel problem, apparently the check engine light came on too.

oh yeah and also one night after it was misfiring i could not even start the car after i turned it off. no engaging off the engine starter motor. i clutch started it to get home.

i took it back to landrover.. they found an error code suggesting a problem with the accelerator unit. it apparently would be the reaosn for the misfires and the limp idle mode..

which they changed, then told me that my warranty never covered the parts. apparently the parts were $ 578. i didnt have my papers to check the fine print and payed the money to get my car back, i was more so over the moon happy that it would now be fixed!!

then i saw the invoice was for parts.. $260 and then the rest was labour. ???
so i was ****ed off but hey i now had my landrover back and it was going to be all smooth motoring from now on right???

well i was wrong. ten minutes into the drive back from the service department the car begins to misfire again...

ill call them again monday but i they mustnt know what the misfire is about. i had spoken to the mechanic there too last time and he didnt know.


ANY THEORIES??

thanks in advance.

ask redback about his canbus fault. i pressure washed his D2 a while ago, on the way to take the D2 back to him at helensburg it did what yours is doing.
all the dash lights came on and off and on and off in the space of seconds, lost all power then regained power, to me it felt like it had dropped a cylinder or two, untill it stopped compleatly. turned it off and re started it it drove for another 5min and did it again.
but it didnt do it after that....
peter davis from roving mecinacal pulled up a test book fault that was ''canbus''

something to do with signals not getting from the engine to the ecu.

if i was you ide replace the crank angle sensor! i reckon thats a good place to start, then pull all the engine harness pulge apart check and clean.

cheers phil

Actually, I'd be starting by going to someone that knows LandRovers such as Davis Performance Landys or Coopers rather than a dealer service who from my experience just keep throwing parts at it and billing you until they fix the problem.

I'm assuming its a manual, by the clutch start. The auto inhibitor switch can do some of these things also. Also boost and associated gear check, intercooler hoses, you've done the loom, ECU and TPS. It would also be interesting to hear if it was the fuel pump too.

I'm logically guessing though.

i know nothing about damputers but they do like a constant voltage hows your battery and alternator.

I was just out of curiosity looking at the top entry and looked at the Seth Efrican site and the first one I saw was this.
I hope it is your problem.
Regards Philip A
Td5 Not Starting/Intermittent Cut-Out

The information below was supplied by Saif Al-Noaimi.
Recently I ran into a problem with my 2001 Defender 90 Td5 not starting and intermittently dying on me on the highway.

I sent the car to the dealer 4 times and first 3 times they were clueless. The 4th time they replaced the ECU wiring harness because they feared it was the oil in the ECU problem. Thankfully the car was still under warranty. But 2 months after that was done (car is now out of warranty) it died on me again. I posted in the Land Rover Addicts Forum my problem and amazingly it turned out to be the relays under my passenger seat were just loose! Apparently they are saying this is a common problem so I thought it might be useful to others to include it in the KB.