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Thread: Worlds worst wheel wobble

  1. #21
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    Red face You guys are seriously good ! - an update

    Got my baby back form the mechanic last night.

    He has replaced the :

    Front radius rod bushes which were Nolathane and aren't now (thanks JC)

    Panhard rod bushes

    Steering damper with a new Bilstein again thanks JC.

    Also an A ball which caused a clunk when I dropped the clutch and now doesn't.

    The steering now is a lot firmer (thanks to the damper?), and the wobble has moved from 85 k's to 95k's plus. It is also half as bad as it was so I am getting happier.

    My mechanic has now advised getting the wheels balanced on the vehicle and checking alignment which following the posts I'll ensure is 0 - 2mm toe out.

    Anyone have any thoughts on his suggestions ? He's been very good so far and is willing to listen to suggestions.

    Thanks a lot to everyone for your help.

    Regards


    Martin

  2. #22
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    From your account, the swivel preload has not been checked - this would be my first check after wheel balance. It is very simple to check, a little more if it is a problem. Just disconnect the tie rod end (and drag link on the left) - if the swivel turns freely, it is too loose.

    Wheel balance on the vehicle might be worthwhile, and may also show any out of round or damaged wheels, although these are likely to show up on the off vehicle balance.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #23
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    Mate it is still the swivels causing problems.What happens is they fret in the straight ahead spot and the bearing pre-load changes as they move out from that position and wobble.I changed mine last year and only the drivers side was U/S but it was enough to cause it to wobble all over the place.There is an upper and lower bearing each side,it only takes one to cause trouble. Pat

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Mate it is still the swivels causing problems.What happens is they fret in the straight ahead spot and the bearing pre-load changes as they move out from that position and wobble.I changed mine last year and only the drivers side was U/S but it was enough to cause it to wobble all over the place.There is an upper and lower bearing each side,it only takes one to cause trouble. Pat
    As above.

    Your vehicle is definately old enough to have this at least checked and repaired as required.
    And I will also mention that the damper has masked a problem that is possibly still there. Get him to check the swivel bearings as Pat says for brinelling/tight spots and lack of preload. I'm using a bilstein damper because I have tall tyres and a lift with only minor castor correction. The Billie dampers are great, but if ANY wobble is still there, then it isn't fixed yet. Sorry.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #25
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    really good guide here on how to do it your self !
    Land Rover Forum

    Matt.

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