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Thread: 3.9 V8 engine oil cooler lines replacement

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucus View Post
    Pirtek ect will most likely replace the flexible hose and leave the steel stand pipe intake. They normally cut the hose from the pipe and install compression ring type fittings on the pipe and this allows the new flexible hose to be installed. This is a good soultion because it eliminated the crimp join and makes the flexible
    hose a replaceable part.

    This "shouldn't" cost more the 50 clams a hose.
    This is what I was originally thinking. Just replace the flexy bit.

    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    A year ago, I bought some barbed fittings from my local LR guys, brazed them onto the old pipes and pushed on new hose. No clamps required.

    This was on the 300Tdi
    Excellent idea Ron. I can't braze them myself however I could flare the ends and use some fittings to make a push on option.

    I'll be gong to Pirtek (or whatever my local hydraulic hose place is) on Monday to find out.

  2. #12
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    I'll try to get some photos of the fittings tomorrow - and details of the hose we used. The lines haven't leaked in the years since they were done.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  3. #13
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    When i installed a seperate trans cooler on my other car i flared the end of the tube and picked up some swivel nut/inverted flare barbed fittings and installed the trans hoses. The fitting can be had for around $20 and super chump autos can sell you a cheap and nasty flaring tool for similar $'


  4. #14
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    Well in my 'buy the tools instead of paying the labour' way I think this is a goer. Dad has a flare tool but he rudely moved an hour away from me so I will have to buy my own.

    Pics and info would be great Ron. Thanks.

  5. #15
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    Feel free to shoot this down but I was told by a hose fitting supply place when buying air compressor stuff (ARB difflocks so 100psi or there abouts) that if I had a double flare tool I could just double flare the end of the copper pipe and put the hose straight onto that.

    The oil pressure (30psi?) is much lower than the air pressure (100psi) so would this be feasible to do?

    I will probably spend the extra and get a double flare tool anyway as they would be handy to have.

  6. #16
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    Just to update.

    I called the hose place that I use and they said that double flaring the 1/2in pipe and just sliding and clamping the hose directly onto the pipe in this application is perfectly alright. So that means I don't need to buy any fittings. Just the double flare tool and some new 1/2in hose.

    I may as well replace the o rings while I'm in there. They don't leak at the moment but no doubt they will when I refit it all.

  7. #17
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    I called Pirtek and the bloke said $120 for them to replace the flexible section with fittings etc. This is with me taking the hose in to them. Funnily enough the guy had just done one for a Disco the previous day.

    Given you can buy a new bottom hose for less than $100 its not really cost effective for that but the top one at about $110 is closer to being a feasible option.

  8. #18
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    I took some pics of the barbed fittings and the hose (Parker hydraulic 400 psi) but they didn't come out very well. I'll try to get some more tomorrow.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  9. #19
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    Peter the cost you have been quoted if it is $120 per pipe is more than either is worth new. However if you keep it for a long time you can change the hose easily. However it will be an easy DIY job.
    I bought a cheapy double flare tool today from Tradetools for $55. So I have no idea what the hose is worth but it has to be less than $115.
    If I was really cheap (which I am) I could reuse the long hose to replace the shorter hose and buy a new long bit. Not sure if one is longer than the other though. I'll get new stuff all round though.

    I will also redo my rear air compressor outlet in copper. At least the engine bay bit.

  10. #20
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    Well I went and bought the hose and hose clamps. Removed the hoses and cut out one hose section out.
    Problem is that the double flare tool I have cannot do it. Just pushes the pipe out of the clamp. Then with a G clamp around the pipe clamp so it cannot flex at all it still pushes the pipe out and bends the handle.
    I looked up the specs of the double flare tool that Blackwoods sells and even it is not up to the task. The thickness of the wall is the problem.

    I can single flare the pipe no problem though. However now the hose shop is shut and Autobarn/Supercheap don't sell the required fittings. Bugger.

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