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Thread: 200tDi Overheating Problems

  1. #1
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    200tDi Overheating Problems

    On my recent trip I had a few problems with over heating. I think I know the causes of it, but I wanted to run it past you all to get your thoughts on it.

    First issue was that I put a new thermostat into it just before I left. Now I got the damn thing from SuperCrap (first mistake) and about 15km's up the road it started overheating. I pulled over and the block and thermostat area was hot, but the coolant hoses, radiator and overflow bottle weren't. Solution - pull out the thermostat. Problem solved. Problem was new thermostat not opening - pretty sure of that one.

    Second and third issues - old girl overheated twice when off-road. Both times I was working between first and second gear high range climbing slopes give her a bit of a hard time. Both times it cooled down easily enough with some gently driving. Now this one had me a little stumped, as either side of these two times it overheated, I did a lot of low range work without any problems. I had also been climbing all over the Snowy Mountains which is pretty steep terrain at the best of times, even if it is a bitumen road. Solution - none so far. Problem - I've got a sneaky thought that it's a bit of crap in the radiator, or the start of the water pump on it's way out, but I'm not too sure to be honest.

    At this stage, I'm thinking of ripping the radiator and water pump out of the old girl, cleaning them up and inspecting them to see what wear there is.

    Short of that, I'm a bit stumped at the moment.

    Cheers
    Chris

  2. #2
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    You are on the right track getting the radiator checked out they block up pretty easy if you haven't kept nice clean coolant in them. You may also want to check out the viscious fan to make sure it is drawing in enough air

  3. #3
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    That thermostat from the 'aftermarket supplier', will most probably have 92deg written on it. I have found catalogs list these incorrectly for LR 200Tdi's, they list the same as a Falcon EA onwards thermostat. The OE one is 88deg, and 4 deg makes a fair bit of difference on the gauge, like it reads 2/3rds when the thermo is open.

    The overheating at slow speeds is possibly the viscous hub, but get the rad rodded out first as this is worthwhile doing at 100,000 to 150,000km intervals to maintain max efficiency.(In addition to normal flushing and coolant changes)

    The viscous fan hubs aren't as exxy as they once were, and you MAY be able to use a XF/ EA falcon one from memory.Anyone confirm this?

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    That thermostat from the 'aftermarket supplier', will most probably have 92deg written on it. I have found catalogs list these incorrectly for LR 200Tdi's, they list the same as a Falcon EA onwards thermostat. The OE one is 88deg, and 4 deg makes a fair bit of difference on the gauge, like it reads 2/3rds when the thermo is open.

    The overheating at slow speeds is possibly the viscous hub, but get the rad rodded out first as this is worthwhile doing at 100,000 to 150,000km intervals to maintain max efficiency.(In addition to normal flushing and coolant changes)

    The viscous fan hubs aren't as exxy as they once were, and you MAY be able to use a XF/ EA falcon one from memory.Anyone confirm this?

    JC
    Thermostat - yep sounds about right.

    The radiator was done approx 40k ago. So the only reason I'm pulling it out is to clean the fins properly and straighten them out basically.

    Fan hub - hadn't thought of that. Been out of trade too long

    How much are they now days to get hold of mate? I reckon you're right on the money with that one actually, when I think about it.

    Cheers
    Chris

  5. #5
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    Chris,

    PM Stuart, he'll be able to give you an up to date $$$. I haven't bought one for about 12 months for a 200Tdi. I haven't fitted a falcon one either, I've just heard that they do the job. I know the thread etc is the same, but the blades? Not sure if the landy ones fit or you have to 'trim' the ford ones

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cewilson View Post
    Thermostat - yep sounds about right.

    The radiator was done approx 40k ago. So the only reason I'm pulling it out is to clean the fins properly and straighten them out basically.

    Fan hub - hadn't thought of that. Been out of trade too long

    How much are they now days to get hold of mate? I reckon you're right on the money with that one actually, when I think about it.

    Cheers
    Chris
    was your radiator done by a reputable person?

    reason i ask we had over heating problems with the 200tdi for a long imte changed the
    thermo 3 times
    had the radiator done
    had coolant changed
    checked fan etc

    as it happened our v8 also had over heated not long before we sold it and we had the radiator rodded etc.....

    only to find the radiator place had basically only flushed our radiators out with a hose pipe then sprayed it with black spray paint to make sure it looked like they had done a fine job...how did we know it was 6 months later we were still having over heating problems with the cars when eventually we pulled the radiator again out the v8 (as we were sure it wasn't this knowing that we had, had it rodded) only to be told by our garage that it was 80% blocked and that they had to have it soaking in an acid bath for 48hrs.

    took the 200tdi one into our mechanic and had it done, low and behold no more over heating.......yes that one and the v8 one were done at the same time
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  7. #7
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    [qu
    Chris

    All of your problems we experienced in my Disco 200 TDI in our return to WA in 02, particularly in the Blue Maintains at the back of Sydney on a long climb (When the damage was done) loeded to the hilt and towing the boat with traffic banked up behind, the temp went into the red and the warning light was flashing... Got to Perth and pulled the Rad and had it repaired. The shop advised that the rad was 80% blocked. Since that in Perth 40+ never above mid range.
    As the result of the overtemp in Sydney I am pretty sure the head is cracked. Suggest pull the rad yourself and get it rodded. If your charged more than $85 you are being ripped off. Suggest you do this before any other expense.
    Regards

    Graham
    Chris[/quote]

  8. #8
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    Does the coolant system have an airlock?? Does it need to be bled?

    Just a thought as it seems to pop-up fairly often as a possible problem.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by discomuzz View Post
    Does the coolant system have an airlock?? Does it need to be bled?

    Just a thought as it seems to pop-up fairly often as a possible problem.

    Nah, I always fill it up the proper way everytime, lesson learnt a long time ago.

    Just a quick one for everyone though, I pulled over before the warning light came on. The minute it started climbing above half on the gauge I started watching it (it never climbs above half)

    Cheers
    Chirs

  10. #10
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    Ford fans are a good swap as they push more air than the original.One thing that everyone needs to know is that you should NEVER run an engine without the thermostat.It needs to be there as the coolant will just go through the bypass hose and back to the rad which will cause the engine to overheat but the gauge will read that it is right.Buy the time you find out it is too late,the engine will need a rebuild as the last piston will weld itself to the bore.Always clean out the A/C condenser as it collects bugs etc and won't let air to the rad,they collect rubbish between each other as well so that needs looking at too. Pat

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