Reply With Quotewhy replace the housing?? just hammer the hole and weld up the split and buy a diff guard. (wont help things coming out though!)
the rest should fit fine.
cheers phil
Master
I went to go out on a trip this morning, traveling along a dirt road to the start of the tracks I hit a pot hole. I heard a rubbing sound like I had picked up a stick. So I stopped, couldn't see anything and headed off again. Noise still there. A mate with me noticed my rear diff leaking. Had a closer look and there were teeth poking out the bottom of the housing.
We took the drive shaft off, and limped home. After a couple of KM's there was no longer anymore noise and we stopped a few times to make sure that things weren't heating up too much, which they didn't.
Now it looks like I will have to replace the Axle Housing when I put my new Diff Centers and Axles in.
The mate I was with has a reinforced Axle Housing from his Dakar which he is willing to give me if it fits. He is unsure of the year of it. It has Disc brakes fitted. Will this under a 91 Disco. If so will the new Drive Flanges that I've just purchased from HTE fit, or will I have to get new ones?
I know some of the questions might be a bit ambigous, but it is about all I know about it.
TIA
Dannie
TopicToaster
why replace the housing?? just hammer the hole and weld up the split and buy a diff guard. (wont help things coming out though!)
the rest should fit fine.
cheers phil
Danni, you probably should have withdrawn the axles as the wheels still would have been driving the Diff, all you did by removing the tail shaft is stopped it from being engine driven.
As far as replacing the housing, you could just pull the centre out and weld up the hole with a Mig, just make sure you clean it up really well.
Dont know about the Diff housing your mate has, depends on what it came out of originally.
Master
We talked about that when we were about 10km from home. Just pulled the axles out now. So will be ok to weld up?Originally Posted by mcrover
Wizard
Yeh just weld it and put a gaurd on.Bad start to the day hope it goes better next time
RoverLord
Im on board with your standard panel beat and weld on this one. but before you start check that the diff is still functioning normally its easier to do the repair with the diff out so it makes sense to check if you need to pull it out first.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
I have a new Center and Axles to go in anyway. I think the current center will be shagged. It made some nasty noises.
Swaggie
I reckon that a crownwheel retaining bolt has come off and punched it's way towards freedom. The crownwheel will have an impact mark and damage if this is the case
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Master
to quote cartman from south park "screw you guys im going home"
By dads old 60 series cruiser did the same thing, the diff got a quick bit of weld, a lick of paint and off to the trade in yard the cruiser went.... on a similar note, we have a Cat D10T in at work at the moment, low hour import, the boys did the customary service and when draining the oil found a valve spring collet in the engine oil.....hmmm where to start on that one....
OldBushie
Spider gears, or cross shaft cactus
You can weld it no worries, if you that way inclined the other housing will fit, if the end caps don;t fit, you just swap over the spindles, hubs etc from yours
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