Thread: Thor manifold

general discussion on this usually has the outcome of more torque and hp down low, with a sacrifice to high hp figures up top. Torque is improved through out the rev range.

For offroad work the thor would be an excelent choice, unless you want to get more then 140hp at all four wheels on a peice of paper! (pretty much not gonna happen unless you have lots of dollars and forced induction)

Fuel savings are also a benefit to the thor manifold!

I am sure PhillipA will have the input and details you require, I have a copy of most the info back home (giving to me by Phillip) but I am in New Zealand at present so can't access it.

Cheers
Grimace

Yep!,, a PM to Phillip would be a good start.


gees you get around Grimace

That's about it.
You get an increase in torque from 1000RPM to 3000RPM and lose power above.
My car has 50% more "tractive effort" from 1500RPM tapering to about 18% at 3000RPM and above. Compared to a 3.9 manifold it makes about 10% less power up high.
I am very happy with the result, and the engine feels like a much larger engine.

I have the Thor manifold mated /adapted to all 14CUX sensors and injectors ( although I have 4 hole Bosch injectors of a similar spec)., plus Unichip, plus self modified heads, snorkel, free flow exhaust.
It is not a bolt in job however.
You need -Range Rover classic fuel rail with the FP regulator on the drivers side of the valley, and grind the coil mounts of the manifold to fit.
Adapt the 14CUX TPS to the Thor Shaft
Make up mounts , piping etc for the stepper,
Re route the oil venting
Make up a hose to accommodate the stepper inlet
Relocate the air cleaner and relocate the MAF
Fabricate a kickdown cable and cable puller, and the hardest bit fabricate a spindle for the kick down on the throttle spindle.
Fabricate heater hoses
Have the Thor manifold drllied and tapped to fit a 14CUX thermostat housing. This was the most expensive bit for me as I had an engineering jobber do it for AFAIR $350. You could DIY but IMHO an accurate job is important for reliability.
Regard sPhilip A

Thanks Phillip for your input. It is something that I will look into in the future as I would like a bit more torque for towing the van and boat. I don't tend to rev out the motor much so that rev range sounds good. Thanks again for all the info.
Cheers
Glen

Originally Posted by PhilipA

That's about it.
You get an increase in torque from 1000RPM to 3000RPM and lose power above.
My car has 50% more "tractive effort" from 1500RPM tapering to about 18% at 3000RPM and above. Compared to a 3.9 manifold it makes about 10% less power up high.
I am very happy with the result, and the engine feels like a much larger engine.

I have the Thor manifold mated /adapted to all 14CUX sensors and injectors ( although I have 4 hole Bosch injectors of a similar spec)., plus Unichip, plus self modified heads, snorkel, free flow exhaust.
It is not a bolt in job however.
You need -Range Rover classic fuel rail with the FP regulator on the drivers side of the valley, and grind the coil mounts of the manifold to fit.
Adapt the 14CUX TPS to the Thor Shaft
Make up mounts , piping etc for the stepper,
Re route the oil venting
Make up a hose to accommodate the stepper inlet
Relocate the air cleaner and relocate the MAF
Fabricate a kickdown cable and cable puller, and the hardest bit fabricate a spindle for the kick down on the throttle spindle.
Fabricate heater hoses
Have the Thor manifold drllied and tapped to fit a 14CUX thermostat housing. This was the most expensive bit for me as I had an engineering jobber do it for AFAIR $350. You could DIY but IMHO an accurate job is important for reliability.
Regard sPhilip A

Sounds familiar, except I got rid of the 14CUX and went Haltech...

No MAF (good) ran a MAP instead... And used a better stepper motor too.

Kickdown was a PITA and needed a D2 Cruise unit under bonnet.

Otherwise Philip has it nailed







Hope these help!

HI there I am considering going down this route Ive bought the manifold but haven't received it yet, I was wondering about the thermostat housing mount why does it need the older one fitted? also the throttle position senor are they known to be electrically different? thanks alex (Land Rover 110 with 3.5 v8 twin carb I have got a 3.9 I want to put in) and ive got a DiscoII v8 4.0.)