Thread: engel fridge repairs... where to go??

Originally Posted by rovercare

Has nothing to do with the insulation, that just keeps the duty cycle down.

My old 20yo unit draws 5.5A running, my new 60l is 3.5A

True,but,a compresser operating with a higher back pressure as it is trying to cool the world(insulation breakdown),will also draw marginally more current.

It is doing more work,so has to draw more current.

On a tiny fridge increase as said ,is only marginal.

On a large plant increase can be substantial causing other problems.

Increase back pressure on any refrigeration compresser will increase current draw.CPR valves,MOP TX valves are all used to stop increase of pressure at compresser & therefore reduce current draw,which may cause motor overload

Originally Posted by scarry

True,but,a compresser operating with a higher back pressure as it is trying to cool the world(insulation breakdown),will also draw marginally more current.

It is doing more work,so has to draw more current.

On a tiny fridge increase as said ,is only marginal.

On a large plant increase can be substantial causing other problems.

Increase back pressure on any refrigeration compresser will increase current draw.CPR valves,MOP TX valves are all used to stop increase of pressure at compresser & therefore reduce current draw,which may cause motor overload

That's very nice, but max draw, will be max draw, unless the motor can be held at locked rotor...........which would mean the fridge is cactus

I was refering more to the increased duty cycle that poor insulation would cause.

more duty at the same amps draw = more drain on the battery.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I was refering more to the increased duty cycle that poor insulation would cause.

more duty at the same amps draw = more drain on the battery.

Das is true, Yah

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

depeding on how its dead....

it might just be DIY...

on the early models there is a fusable link in the circut board if it gets a bit rotten with age it can blow out. Carefully solder (will need to check) a 5a super slow blow sand filled fuse in its place and you will be right again.

if it runs on 240v and not on 12v it may be as simple as one of the transistors having chucked a hissy, Mine was dying and while dad was over I had him throw his leccy mind at it and $20 later my engle is now perfect again...

hey night
u wouldn't remember which transistor was &^*^&^
the ones pop riveted to the heat sink
or on the PCB itself ?


appreciate any direction, checked all diodes etc
blows fuse immediately
AC on fridge works fine


regards
OZ

Originally Posted by cucinadio

hey scarry.....my bro wants to throw an old one my way but he says it draws way to much .....????......he has a duel battery set up and he still isn't happy with what it pulls ...any ideas????

Have a read here:
Engel current draw - a way to identify how old your fridge is!


(edit - should have noticed the date...)

On an old Engel of mine the compressor died so we (actually my fridgie brother) replaced the original compressor with a Danfoss equivalent and added Schrader valves to it so it can be re-charged.

Any domestic fridge repairer should be able to do it.

My engel stopping working recently. As it was about 20 yrs old and has at times run non-stop for months on end i figured it was probably fair enough.... But then I pushed the power plug in properly and it miraculously came back to life

Its worth double checking that it is not something really obvious.

It will be a sad day when I have to retire my engel and a marginal increase in power use won't be enough to make be put it out to pasture.