Thread: Improving fuel efficiency v8i

These devices are a waste of space, do a search on Hiclones on this site, try not driving in O/D all the time, dont put your foot to the floor to get up hills, go back a gear and use less throttle, use the torque of the engine, Regards Frank.

So called fuel saving devices are basically a crock of s**t. There was a post put up here the other day regarding one that has just been forceably removed from the market for having no discernable benefits and not living up to what it states.
Hiclones are really no better and technically they are also questionable.
A Hiclone supposedly increases the airflow by creating turbulence, but someone still needs to explain how you get more air past the throttle plate which controls the airflow into the plenum, and then explain how you keep the velocity and turbulence in the plenum which is there to actually stop turbulence and create an even pressure across all intake runners.
Think about it, if you create MORE airflow into the engine, this still has to pass thru the airflow meter which will register the increase and compensate for more air by adding more fuel.
These clowns use scare tactics and smoke and mirrors to peddle their crap to sucker buyers hit with the cost of fuel these days. Not one of them will ever give you a straight answer as to why and how their claims are possible.
Anybody can produce "creative" performance figures and stake claims, thats the whole point of marketing these items.
I have been in the game for quite a few years now and have seen them come and go and I am yet to see one that actually works.
Save your money, your rightfoot is the best way to increase your fuel economy.

Cheers
Andrew.

Just to add to this, Hiclone make a reference to emptying a water bottle by spinning the water rather than just letting it just flow out. Science lesson #1:
The bottle only has one open end. As the water comes out, it needs to be replaced by air or a vacuum forms which SLOWS the exiting water out of the bottle until the vacuum is broken by an air bubble rising into the bottle. Spinning the water out of the bottle creates a vortex hole up the centre allowing air to flow back into the bottle without bubbling up past the outgoing water, so yes this makes it exit quicker. Open the other end of the bottle and try the same test again and it will take longer this way.

However this theory has absolutely nothing to do with and is completely incompatible with what they are trying to apply it to. If you "spin" air or water down a pipe or tube etc, you INCREASE the amount of contact area it has with the pipework, taking longer to get down the pipe and significantly increasing the frictional loss through the pipework resulting in less flow.
Next time you come face to face with any of these people, ask them what qualifications and experience they have in liquid or airflow and I could guarantee they will change the subject.
Same thing goes for fuel ionisers etc etc etc.

This is the type of smoke and mirrors bollocks that these guys come up with and quite frankly it I am completely against it.

go for the entry level performance upgrades, snorkel, K&N air filter, a proper exhaust system on it (unlike that restrictive pos that comes on it from the factory)

get it dyno tuned so the fuel map isnt just the generic one

the easier the engine can do its job, the less fuel it will burn

The V8 disco does not chew through any more fuel than any other petrol engined 4wd pulling around 2 tonnes - is a bit better than both Toyos and Patrols - just a little worse than Pajeros etc.

Garry

Toss the V8 and stick in a diesel

You could fit a tin can full of water and run it on Hydrogen

Originally Posted by Tank

These devices are a waste of space, do a search on Hiclones on this site, try not driving in O/D all the time, dont put your foot to the floor to get up hills, go back a gear and use less throttle, use the torque of the engine, Regards Frank.

That isn't going to save fuel. If you've ever seen a BSFC map you'll know why.

Engines are most efficient with the throttle most of the way open (just before they hit enrichment) with lower rpm.

Going down a gear raises the rpm (more frictional losses) and results in a bigger pressure drop across the throttle (more pumping losses).

The best fuel economy is found with the tallest gears your engine can pull. Making sure the auto stays in lockup will help greatly too.

Originally Posted by Dougal

That isn't going to save fuel. If you've ever seen a BSFC map you'll know why.

Engines are most efficient with the throttle most of the way open (just before they hit enrichment) with lower rpm.

Going down a gear raises the rpm (more frictional losses) and results in a bigger pressure drop across the throttle (more pumping losses).

The best fuel economy is found with the tallest gears your engine can pull. Making sure the auto stays in lockup will help greatly too.

Thanks for your input. I have to agree with you about using the tallest gear that the engine is comfortable with. Some time ago I observed the computerised instantaneous fuel consumption on an astra I hired. When going uphill, at the same speed, changing down a gear used more fuel than allowing the engine to work in o/d