Do it yourself it is the only way to be sure
I had a radiator replaced 12,000ks ago by a reputable Melbourne non dealer service center - it's on my 2003 TD5. I noticed the coolant colour had changed from red to Green just afterwards. I had specifically asked them to make sure the right coolant was used. When I challenged them on this they said - it's definitely the right coolant in there - Land Rover had two specs for the coolant - one red and one green and they were interchangeable.
Does that sound right?
If it;s the wrong coolant - how serious is this, and is there anyone I can trust to flush and refill properly?
Do it yourself it is the only way to be sure
disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.
In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message
Yes I probably will do that... Good point.
But is there anything special I need to know about flushing out he wrong coolant. does it need an acid clean or something like that?
Drop it several times and replace with clean water.Replace with OAT coolant,wich is as you state,NORMALLY red.Then you are sure you have the correct coolant.Make sure you run the heater to full temp at each flush to ensure ALL the green is lost.
GOODLUCK
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
I use a 'green' coolant in all these. Td5, V8 bla bla it all gets the same. It gets flushed every 2 years or 40k, and so far(Over the last 7 years) I have never had to replace rads/ waterpumps/ head gaskets or any other cooling system component due to a coolant based issue at all since using/ changing to this item, which EXCEEDS all ford, Cummins, Mack, Volvo, Mercedes Benz etc requirements and specifications.
I got over the OAT obsession that LR has, as never before have I seen so many leaking radiators and water pumps as when they started to use it. The early discos and RR's never used it, I would hardly ever replace system components on these vehicles until the Td5 etc came along. I pretty soon found I needed to keep a radiator , water pump, hoses etc in stock all the time for them.
Each to their own, but I don't remain convinced of its better 'properties'.
Of course, all vehicles I work on that are in warranty I have to use it, but under duress
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Interesting.
Haven't had a single problem (touch wood) in the two vehicles I use it in (looks like my late '98 tdi came with OAT from the factory and converted the Nissan ) but quite a few people OS that have OAT/Dexcool problems use GO5 (HOAT) successfully.
All the advantages, none of the downsides.
FWIW CAT Longlife coolant is the Texaco (Land Rover) stuff with a couple of supplementary additives to totally eliminate cavitation erosion.
I had the Disco cooling system done up on thursday,$800 later and texaco green went in,it's the only coolant that works in 40+ degree heat here,the rad specialist has been here for 10 years and tried them all. Pat
I flush my radiator and change the green coolant every Melbourne cup holiday (what else do you do on a tuesday off??). never had a problem with any cooling component since I have owned the D!.
i had my coolant changed recently and the car came back with green type so asked the question and was told it is fortron brand
Fortron Automotive Treatments
if it is this stuff then meets oat requirements i think and as i trust the mechanic i will take his word for it.
cheers
yorkie
ps. anyone in sydney wanting 5ltrs of nulon red let me know as have a bottle in the shed.![]()
the td5 needs the oat because of the mix of metals.
that said..
if you use a hi quality ethyl glycol and change it at the correct interval with a flush your going to be ok. (you also need to keep it at the correct %age)
if you use oat you only have to change it once every 5 years/100k Kms ish but the same deal with flushing and concentration applies.
the 2 arent compatable and if you go from one to the other without flushing correctly your basically screwed.
Oat is more tolerant of neglectful servicing (not changing) and over heating
Ethyl clycol is more tolerant of incorrect mixing and other chemicals.
I prefer OAT in the garage as you can use it in everything and not have to worry about it being suitable but it does mean you have to flush everything prior to changing But I carry ethyl glycol as you can easily get it in concentrated form so you only have to carry a couple of liters and plenty of water.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks