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Thread: Rebuilding a Rover V8

  1. #261
    Join Date
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    thanks again all, ill have to get out there and make some measurements when the thunderstorm clears.

  2. #262
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    You need .060 to get the Comp up , usually .030 off the block and the same on the heads . Always deck to Zero , then work out how much off the heads , My engines run comps of over 12:1 on 98RON , sweet as , no detonation,pinging,pinking,knocking or what ever word you would like to describe colliding Flame fronts .Now given that , the singh curves do a terrific job in the first 2000 Rpm in getting a clean burn and maintaining a smooth IDLE , even with CAms that are considered HUGE for a little ROVER V8. Try 550 lift , 260@50 even split 106LCS Solid Tappet.300HP out of a 3.5 aint that hard if you have the compression and Correct heads . (Problem being how long do they run at this level !!!)

  3. #263
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    Question measurments

    So i just finished getting the other head off (its gasket was fine) and measuring how far down the pistons are in thou.

    Facing engine, counting towards the back of engine:

    Left,
    1 - 44
    2 - 49
    3 - 49
    4 - 47

    Right
    1 - 48
    2 - 46
    3 - 46
    4 - 49

    does this all look like i did it right ?

    (im sure there would be an accuracy of about + or - 1 to 3 thou, as i only had a cheap caliper, and i could only trp my best to get it at TDC for each piston)

    so what now ?

  4. #264
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    So you used a Dial indicator to make sure you were at TDC for each piston , and then you measured how far down the Bore each piston was whilst at TDC . Exactly where did you measure the piston ? at 6.0clock , at 12 oclock at 3 oclock or smack dang in the center ?The reading looks pretty consistent , so you need to deck the block .045 to zero it up .Fit some Flat top pistons (holden 186's) might need a Balance while your at it !!)

  5. #265
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    thanks for the help, i dont have a dial indicator, nor will i be doing anything to the block or pistons. this is just a cheap fix up job for blown gasket, and trying to work out what gasket to use and what if anything to have taken of the head during skim.

    readings would have been taken at a variety of edge locations (times).

  6. #266
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    Feb 2010
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    Melbourne
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    They are pretty crappy as in been very low down. If you dont want to touch the deck, go tin gasket. A comp gasket will be a dog.

    shaving the head wont solve the squish cleareance, just shave the minimum to get the warps out. (unless you want to up the comp ratio).
    But........ big squish clearence and high compression aren't the best things to do.

  7. #267
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    thanks mate, id love to do more but just dont have the cash, time or justification.

    can you make any recommendations on where to get a tin gasket set, or should i just ask around the local LR parts repairers ?

  8. #268
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    NSW , Pennant Hills
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    Quote Originally Posted by haydent View Post
    thanks mate, id love to do more but just dont have the cash, time or justification.

    can you make any recommendations on where to get a tin gasket set, or should i just ask around the local LR parts repairers ?
    I'd try "triumph rover spares" if you're in SA, they probably have the kit , give them a call tomorrow.

  9. #269
    Join Date
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    thanks, they would have been on the my list as well as 'Land Ranger Spares'.

    will call tommorow.

  10. #270
    CHRIS SLOAN Guest
    hi all
    im in the same position its a 93 discovery with a 3.9 ltr
    had it for 5 years but have using water and the other day noticed the oil had gone a creamy colour
    am starting to pull it apart , the info on an earlier rebuild has been great reading and the pictures have been very helpful
    i ordered my gasket sets from FOUR WHEEL DRIVES i n BLACKBURN STH VIC they should arrive for the weekend i will keep you posted

    ps does the dipstick tube come out ? because i bent it

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