Thread: Rebuilding a Rover V8

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Just give her a good pull mate. You can twist at the same time since you have now marked the relationship of the dizzy to the block.
There is an O ring on the shaft that sticks over time.
The rotor will rotate 30degrees in relation to the dizzy as you withdraw it, as the helical gear withdraws from the cam. It is helpful to mark its "going in position" so as to speak.
BTW your no1 is usually not that possy. It is usually 180degrees from there, so in the past someone has mixed up their TDCs. BUT it is nothing to worry about. Just the leads are cut to the lengths required and may be a bit short or long.

I tried both TDC positions and the rotor Gears would not disengage so finally Cranked the Pully at No1 "As you described" give it a Full "TUG" and how do you say "Ah ,The Value of Education "






JUST BE SURE that the no1 lead was above the tip of the rotor at that position or you will wonder why it will not start when you get it back together.

Sorry Mate You've Lost me here ??

Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by p38arover

The thing to remember with viscous couplings is to hit the spanner in the same direction as the fan rotates. Doesn't matter if it's a LH or RH thread, it will always undo in that way.

Khos, I'm pretty sure I have the rocker cover socket (or do I borrow my local LR workshop's socket?).

Thank you for the Offer Ron , My Sister's Landlord owns a Tools Buisness around Mccgrath Hill and says he has them in stock , I will be seeing him today so he will bring one along as well as a Torque Wrench.

BTW Merry Xmas to Everyone

okay , this is what my Sis got me for me as a Xmas pressie , how did she know ???



oh and 5/16" 1/4"drive socket

Can I ask the Mods to Please move this thread to the Projects and Tutorials...Thank you

Ok, Today was a very productive day , I made a Board out of Ply wood and drilled it with holes for all Head Bolts so they don't get mixed up on Fitament ,all Bolts should go in it;s original place if this is the "Correct procedure" well Then I'm on the right track.




where I'm at right now, all head Bolts have been removed as seen on the board , Fuel Rails is off , Now I'm still stuck with the power steering Pump , the captive nut is off , however the b@#$%^D won't rotate oh and taking out the Plenum housing, It won't come off......

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

1: Undo the 3 bolts hanging onto the metal pulley ... pulley falls off

2: Undo the flange nut to the side of the power steering pump ... (the small one // not the big 1" one as it is fixed to the pump) ... High pressure pipe pulls out

3: Undo hose clamp to bottom low pressure hose to pump (the one that goes to the oil fill canister) ... pull it off and catch the oil in a bucket

4: Undo // loosen the bolts that are in the photo // ... Footnote ... (try to pull and or push it up first, as it may be not tight enough for it to be fixed in place and then you can move straight to step 6)

5: Stand on Passenger fender side and pull the pump UP ... (Gap now large enough to remove pump LATER ON)

6: Undo the 3? bolts hanging onto the pump at THE FRONT of the bracket ... Pump falls down and just pick it up and remove it out through the space between bracket and engine block

7: Next job?

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

1: Undo the 3 bolts hanging onto the metal pulley ... pulley falls off

Couldn't get all 3 Bolts off , got 1 off even with Tension on the Pulley , I have an Impact Gun but it won't fit with the socket on the end of it to take the 3 bolts of that's holding the Pulley , I don't have the tool that places Tension on Pulleys to take the bolts off either , it just spins around with a spanner on the Bolts going CCW.

2: Undo the flange nut to the side of the power steering pump ... (the small one // not the big 1" one as it is fixed to the pump) ... High pressure pipe pulls out


Yep, That was done this Morning

3: Undo hose clamp to bottom low pressure hose to pump (the one that goes to the oil fill canister) ... pull it off and catch the oil in a bucket

4: Undo // loosen the bolts that are in the photo // ... Footnote ... (try to pull and or push it up first, as it may be not tight enough for it to be fixed in place and then you can move straight to step 6)

5: Stand on Passenger fender side and pull the pump UP ... (Gap now large enough to remove pump LATER ON)

6: Undo the 3? bolts hanging onto the pump at THE FRONT of the bracket ... Pump falls down and just pick it up and remove it out through the space between bracket and engine block

Can't get past Step No 1.

7: Next job?

Next Job's to call a Mobile Mechanic
just kidding mate > I will have another "crack" at it tomorrow morning

Edit : here is a Pic

I have to say it's amusing watching people pull Rover 8's apart the 1st time. Your doing ok though
You will think the same once your done. Keep up the good work

Tony

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

I have to say it's amusing watching people pull Rover 8's apart the 1st time. Your doing ok though
You will think the same once your done. Keep up the good work

Tony

Hi Tony;it's been a fantastic Journey , I've really enjoyed swinging spanners , there has been so many barriers and it's actually been quite educational , latest saga is "The intake manifolds won't come off" I have tried standing on the chassic rails inside the engine bay area and grabing the thermo housing with both hands to try and pull up the intake housing and I still cant pull it off . oh BTW before you ask I've removed all the Bolts .

Feel free to Jump in at any time, you input is much appreciated

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

Next Job's to call a Mobile Mechanic
just kidding mate > I will have another "crack" at it tomorrow morning

Edit : here is a Pic

Now Disco_owner .... I would ask you to reflect to the bit about the Viscos nut









.... Put the Ring Spanner on the nut and hit it "Anti Clockwise"


OR ... If you want to be gentle ... Apply a little heat to the nut to expand it via a $10 Butane pocket / Pencil torch ... I got mine from Repco in their "cheapy bin" ... Runs on Butane gas // the refill can for ciggy lighters

But personally .... Hit it


Your doing good .... Doing the basics of "clean and orderly" is the key to a good build


Mike