Thread: Rebuilding a Rover V8

Originally Posted by Traco

I wouldn't really call the 3.5 'high performance'. It's about the lowest power producing V8 there is particularly in low comp form. It can be made to produce some repectable performance so far as its power to weight ratio is concerned, increasing capacity is especially beneficial. But the heads are the limiting factor.

Re head gaskets: I shaved 80 thou off my Buick heads and fitted them to the 4.6 with tin gaskets using metallic spray paint (an old trick used by nitro burning dragsters in the UK who were repeatedly blowing composite gaskets). Had to shave the inlet manifold down by the same amount each side so it would fit ok using the tin inlet gasket.

You are useing the cast buick heads on a Rover. I've never done it but 64 (Later were cast)Buick 300 heads ported with bigger valves will get a stroker or 4.6 going very well

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I note your experience with this as it is really seductive to get extra CR.


How do you get over the port misalignment when using composite heads with tin gaskets. I originally bought a pair of composite heads to fit with tin gaskets , but when I looked at the relationship at the port tops I chickened out and fitted them with composites. You could skim the manifold but that would make the end seal problem worse and make the manifold unique to that setup..
I also worked out that the composite heads were just tin heads with about 40 thou off the face. I suppose its only 40 thou but there is not much surface there. Also You would have to shim the rocker pedestals which is no big deal but anyone doing tin gasket should know its necessary.

I still believe the fundamental problem with the water leaks is that the blocks bend over time. If I were to rebuild mine I would have it line bored and decked, as I had an old 3.5 in Saudi that would hardly turn with new bearings from the bend.
Regard sPhilip A

Hi Phillip,

The port misalignment is very minimal, in fact the factory alignment is very approximate and pretty ordinary When I get to fitting performance cams etc I port match manifolds and find that yes, more attention is required at the inlet ports but hasn't been an issue as yet. I think in your case, chasing the most perfect relationship of components to achieve max efficiency I can see why you reverted to composites. I can't afford this with MOST engines I work on due to budgetry constraints, it is after all the customers $$$ I'm spending and if they want me to go down that path I will, but most just want a good strong reliable V8 that will see out a few more years (of fuel useage)
As regards the rocker pedestals, a standard cam in worn condition won't be a problem if only doing heads, BUT the preload should be measured and adusted if replacing cam with anything over .440" lift.
And as regards block bow, It is a good excuse to top hat liner and fit a stroker crank, don't you?

JC

I can't begin to describe my feeling of Jubilation , I finally got the Intake Manifolds out ,a truck load of bashing the intake with soft block of wood and a big hammer from all different angles all morning and when I was just about to give up for the day I finally felt a slight movement and kept working at it until it eventually happend.

Now I am no expert at this , It looks like bad news to me , I might be up for new valves and head needs some work ,particularly valve seats On close inspection
As you can see the Blue sealant is used by Tube loads everywhere , is that the correct stuff to use ?????


and Looks like on previous fitament the "Tin Gasket" was used

The intake manifold thoroughly cleaned off all Blue sealant and I'm really pleased with the result.


Pic from inside the cylinder

and more pics


Well guys I have to say I'm really enjoying this Build and all the Cr@p that goes with it

That model had tin gaskets from the factory, and in one of the pics the part number, ETC7819 is still visible on the block surface. I'd say that this is all looking pretty well normal, except the silicon excesses which show a certain amount of poor judgement by someone...

JC

Justinc;

What are your Recommendations at this point;

I have a lot of time on my hands ATM and am willing to get the job done right$$$ wise it's not an issue either.

The Rangie has had a new standard Cam & followers put in ( from what I'm told ) headgasket was replaced on 1 side , so I suspect the heads have very likely come off post factory fitament of the Tin Gasket ? hence the excessive use of the Blue Silicone ? or is this Blue silicone on factory fitament ?

I'm yet to pull off the head on the passenger side and further investigate the condition of the head , valves etc .

I am willing to pull the Pistons out and rebuild the whole motor while I've got the heads off , is this possible ?

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

Justinc;

What are your Recommendations at this point;

I have a lot of time on my hands ATM and am willing to get the job done right$$$ wise it's not an issue either.

The Rangie has had a new standard Cam & followers put in ( from what I'm told ) headgasket was replaced on 1 side , so I suspect the heads have very likely come off post factory fitament of the Tin Gasket ? hence the excessive use of the Blue Silicone ? or is this Blue silicone on factory fitament ?

I'm yet to pull off the head on the passenger side and further investigate the condition of the head , valves etc .

I am willing to pull the Pistons out and rebuild the whole motor while I've got the heads off , is this possible ?

If there isn't any signs of excessive bore marks, the tops of those pistons look pretty good,I would just reco the heads and bung it back together. What I would do as you have the time on your hands, is port match inlets and exhausts. It takes time but IMHO is well worth it. The standard cam is still a good choice, but the compression ratio is the issue with these local engines, the poms get the 9.35:1 as an option, we didn't So, if you refit tin gaskets and the slight skim fom the head reco will give you slightly more than factory compression, without going the full rebore/ new Hicomp pistons etc etc which is big $$$, it'll be fine
In answer to your question, yes you can re ring insitu, but isn't worth it if there is no need, as honing increases cyl bore to piston clearances so you are not achieving anything here unless the engine has a problem with oil consumption etc.
As I said, it all looks pretty much what I would expect to see in those photos so keep on trucking!
And NO, Bloody- Blue- silicon in those quantities should be illegal. A SMALL amount in the corners of the valley end seals, and Hylomar on head gaskets and inlet manifold gasket is all that is reqired to do a good neat job.
JC

Have you pulled the valves out if not fill chambers with liguid Kero,Diesel etc(not oil) and see if they leak. You may get away with a skim and few gaskets. As JC said the bores look OK BTW I hate that blue muck as well Way toooo much used there. Not good for them as can end up in oil the pick up etc
You'r doing very well. Next time will be easy for you.

Tony

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Have you pulled the valves out if not fill chambers with liguid Kero,Diesel etc(not oil) and see if they leak. You may get away with a skim and few gaskets. As JC said the bores look OK BTW I hate that blue muck as well Way toooo much used there. Not good for them as can end up in oil the pick up etc
You'r doing very well. Next time will be easy for you.

Tony

I was thinking the same Tony, but apparently $$ and time aren't important so I'd go the reco so at least the guides and stem seals etc get a look see.

JC