Thread: Rebuilding a Rover V8

Originally Posted by justinc

Yup, especially since it has just had a cam etc, by the time the cam wears out a 4.6 long is going in...

JC

With a blower or 300 worked heads

Originally Posted by justinc

If there isn't any signs of excessive bore marks, the tops of those pistons look pretty good,I would just reco the heads and bung it back together. What I would do as you have the time on your hands, is port match inlets and exhausts. It takes time but IMHO is well worth it. The standard cam is still a good choice, but the compression ratio is the issue with these local engines, the poms get the 9.35:1 as an option, we didn't So, if you refit tin gaskets and the slight skim fom the head reco will give you slightly more than factory compression, without going the full rebore/ new Hicomp pistons etc etc which is big $$$, it'll be fine
In answer to your question, yes you can re ring insitu, but isn't worth it if there is no need, as honing increases cyl bore to piston clearances so you are not achieving anything here unless the engine has a problem with oil consumption etc.
As I said, it all looks pretty much what I would expect to see in those photos so keep on trucking!
And NO, Bloody- Blue- silicon in those quantities should be illegal. A SMALL amount in the corners of the valley end seals, and Hylomar on head gaskets and inlet manifold gasket is all that is reqired to do a good neat job.
JC

Thanks JC , if I want slightly more compression I need to go with Tin gasket after shimming heads slightly ? I've already ordered the composite ones ? I'll try and find a place that reco's heads and take them both there , you spoke about matching ports ? I know Bruce Davies does this in-house but how Can I achieve the port macthing seeing I'm a total Novice at this , also some of the valves are badly work out , would it pay to put in a new set exhaust and intake valves ? which would mean some head work ? I know Tony mentioned to pout some dieso into the port to see if the valves leak ? I would like to get the Job Done right seeing I've gone thru all the trouble of pulling both heads off..

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Time.... I'm about to bugger two of his spare days
Good idea. Heads will be good for another 200K+ that way. Buy the look of bores the bottom end may go the distance if well seviced.

Tony

That's not a problem at all mate. Glad I can help.

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

Thanks JC , if I want slightly more compression I need to go with Tin gasket after shimming heads slightly ? I've already ordered the composite ones ? I'll try and find a place that reco's heads and take them both there , you spoke about matching ports ? I know Bruce Davies does this in-house but how Can I achieve the port macthing seeing I'm a total Novice at this , also some of the valves are badly work out , would it pay to put in a new set exhaust and intake valves ? which would mean some head work ? I know Tony mentioned to pout some dieso into the port to see if the valves leak ? I would like to get the Job Done right seeing I've gone thru all the trouble of pulling both heads off..



That's not a problem at all mate. Glad I can help.

Thanks...If there were more poeple like we have here the world would be a nicer place for shure
Unless you have a halteck or unichip etc I think the in house job won't make a lot of diffo. They do make them breath a bit better by removing a bit near the valves but not sure if thay port match the manifold + gasket. I recon a bit of miss match can increase low end torque to some extent anyway.

Do you have one of these http://www.carbidebur.com/misc/airto...FQhJagod5QmcDg

If so you can match ports and gasket. Just assemble with some blue muck and then disassembly soon after will reveal what needs to lose weight

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Thanks...If there were more poeple like we have here the world would be a nicer place for shure
Unless you have a halteck or unichip etc I think the in house job won't make a lot of diffo. They do make them breath a bit better by removing a bit near the valves but not sure if thay port match the manifold + gasket. I recon a bit of miss match can increase low end torque to some extent anyway.

Do you have one of these Die Grinders Air Tool Accessories

If so you can match ports and gasket. Just assemble with some blue muck and then disassembly soon after will reveal what needs to lose weight

Noooooooooooooooooooooo , I don't want to see the Colour Blue any more

That Grinder looks like it will do the Job , problem is I wouldn't know which parts to grind off to port match , it looks like a simple enough job , may be I'll take the intake and heads to BD and get him to set it up properly

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

I

Pic from inside the cylinder

That's a lot of crud stuck between the piston & bore from when you scrapped the block clean

Get a old vacuum cleaner ... and vacuum out as much of the crud as possible ... before you turn the crank

Then rotate the motor crank so that when each piston is at the top .. you vacuum clean out the crud in the gap between piston & the bore

Don't try to give it a blast of compressed air to clean it .. as you want to remove as much debris as possible right now

Also put a light coating of oil on the bores ... when you are finished cleaning .. so rust doesn't form



Also ... Did you protect & cover the oil galleries (when cleaning) from debris falling in?



Also put a big rag over the whole exposed block to protect from unwanted objects such as moths / dust / etc falling in and giving grief later on


Mike

Congratulations Khos! I knew you could do it!

You can see the water track on that end cylinder.Dunno which number but whichever it has been leaking compression there.

I agree the motor looks fine and if you trust that a new cam is in, then just get the heads serviced and then you have the joy of putting it back together.

IMHO the cam is OK as there was no noise when I drove it. It is quieter than mine! which I guess is logical since mine has done 162KK on the original cam.

Clean off the top of the block with scotchbrite pads, while having some rag in the cylinders, and make sure all the stud holes are clean and dry before reassembly. Clean the threads with a dental pick if necessary. And then maybe wind a screwdriver down the holes with a bit of rag wrapped around it.

BTW that is a 14 stud head. The outer studs must not have been refitted last time . See the outer row of holes. The outer studs are not necessary but that makes it a tin gasket head.

Now THAT is what I call loctited!!!! That is crazy stuff. You also see why you shouldn't use the stuff if you want to get the engine apart again.
Regard sPhilip A

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

That Grinder looks like it will do the Job , problem is I wouldn't know which parts to grind off to port match , it looks like a simple enough job , may be I'll take the intake and heads to BD and get him to set it up properly

Doesn't work that way .... You have to port match manifold to heads on & with the block

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

Noooooooooooooooooooooo , I don't want to see the Colour Blue any more

That Grinder looks like it will do the Job , problem is I wouldn't know which parts to grind off to port match , it looks like a simple enough job , may be I'll take the intake and heads to BD and get him to set it up properly

Would be best to assemble 1st so can see what is offset etc the manifold and heads off the block wont do Who ever put it togeather last time must think they leak oil

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

That's a lot of crud stuck between the piston & bore from when you scrapped the block clean

Get a old vacuum cleaner ... and vacuum out as much of the crud as possible ... before you turn the crank

Then rotate the motor crank so that when each piston is at the top .. you vacuum clean out the crud in the gap between piston & the bore

Don't try to give it a blast of compressed air to clean it .. as you want to remove as much debris as possible right now

Also put a light coating of oil on the bores ... when you are finished cleaning .. so rust doesn't form



Also ... Did you protect & cover the oil galleries (when cleaning) from debris falling in?



Also put a big rag over the whole exposed block to protect from unwanted objects such as moths / dust / etc falling in and giving grief later on


Mike

X2 thanks Mike. Very important for longevity. Don't clean the carbon off the pistons as will lower the compression