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Thread: Is there even a D1 out there that steers nicely at 100?

  1. #31
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    When lifted its the CASTOR that changes, god people, its hard to make youselves sound like you know stuff, when useing incorrect terminology, its right through this thread

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by B92 8NW View Post
    I didn't have the problem when I bought the car with 205/80 Goodyear HTs on it. It developed when I put my 225/75 ATs on.

    But I can't understand how that would cause it. Strange though
    Well its probably the tyres then, seeing as though, you changed them and all of a sudden it began to wander

    Going from narrow car like tyres, to wider, more knobbly tyres will have that effect

  3. #33
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Hi folks

    Bla .. bla ..

    Hence ... I believe that maybe "More camber" for the front end maybe required

    This link may be the go in identifying & fixing the problem

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ls-how-do.html

    Mike

    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    When lifted its the CASTOR that changes, god people, its hard to make yourselves sound like you know stuff, when using incorrect terminology, its right through this thread
    Yes ... Castor is what I meant to write ... not camber

  4. #34
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    On the first page he said it wasn't lifted so count it out. Pat

  5. #35
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    You also said you wound the P-S adjuster in 1/8 turn,do yourself a favour and wind it back out or you will chip the hard chroming off the worm or crush the bearing which will damage the shaft,both mean the box is U/S and you will need a new one.Swivel bearings are alot cheaper. Pat

  6. #36
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    On the first page he said it wasn't lifted so count it out. Pat
    I hear you on that one Pat



    But with wider tyres ... the weight of the car is transferred from center of the rims, to the outer walls of the tires, further than skinny tyres

    As the wider tyres sit on cambered roads it's center of weight is changed over a "greater variance of distance" over the "width of the tyre"

    A example of heavily cambers in the road, is "heavy haulage tracks" (by 20ton road trains) in the bitumen ... as the wheels try to negotiate this tracking .... the "outer walls" of the tyres are carrying the main weight rather than the "center of" or "all of the surface" of the tyre ... and then the tyre starts to track as it try's to even up the load of weight, back to the center of the tyre




    So my prompting is in relation to ....
    ..... if you install wider tyres ... Is the factory Castor setup "good enough" for this purpose

    Mike


  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Hi folks

    Just done a 1600k round trip to Esperance from Perth

    The RRC drove real great and performed without missing a beat ... However .. the steering on the highway & outback roads can be a bit of a challenge in inexperienced hands on certain styles of tarmac roads

    While it does steer & drive comfortable on a straight track ... it can have a "rear end flick" effect on corners ... in some areas of certain styles of roads ...Especially where heavy haulage trucks have left their deep grooves in the road ... the car can try to climb to the top of these cambers ..... of the tracking in the road ...

    In one instance ... the front end flicked & twisted suddenly, on a bend, as it tried to climb the camber of the Heavy haulage grooves in the road ... It threw the car to the center of the road by 2 feet in "an instant" ... before I caught it ... and corrected the steering to drive straight again // Very dangerous // Happened only once throughout the whole trip & scared the "begeevers" out of me

    Hence ... I believe that maybe "More camber" for the front end maybe required

    This link may be the go in identifying & fixing the problem

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ls-how-do.html

    Mike

    Have you changed the rear springs?
    Reason I ask is because stiffer rear springs (mine had 300+ lb/in in the rear) made mine oversteer viciously.
    Going back to 180lb/in springs fixed it, I've just swapped to 240lb/in springs to hold the rear up, we'll see how they go.

    If your steering box feels loose, this may be the solution:
    Wiggly 3 Bolt Steering Box Fix.

  8. #38
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Have you changed the rear springs?
    Reason I ask is because stiffer rear springs (mine had 300+ lb/in in the rear) made mine oversteer viciously.
    Going back to 180lb/in springs fixed it, I've just swapped to 240lb/in springs to hold the rear up, we'll see how they go.

    If your steering box feels loose, this may be the solution:
    Wiggly 3 Bolt Steering Box Fix.
    Yes to front & rear springs
    ... KRFS-01 ... King Spring 1" for front
    ... KRRR-02 ... King Spring 2" lift for rear

    Not happy with the tougher ride as they are thicker spring (heavy Duty) .. & will be changing them soon to a lighter weight spring // closer to original factory spring load ratings

    Mike


  9. #39
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    The wider tyres have pushed tired swivel bearings passed their limit IMHO. Pat

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    Yes to front & rear springs
    ... KRFS-01 ... King Spring 1" for front
    ... KRRR-02 ... King Spring 2" lift for rear

    Not happy with the tougher ride as they are thicker spring (heavy Duty) .. & will be changing them soon to a lighter weight spring // closer to original factory spring load ratings

    Mike

    Bingo.
    Same problem I had, with the same sort of springs (rear's both stiffer and longer than the fronts) I don't know your spring rates but lifting the rear more than the front makes the problem even worse.
    Let us know how the softer rear springs work.

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